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But most consumer level gear doesn't include balanced connections, unless you are right at the high end, or in 2 channel HiFi. Many years ago we once quoted a system for the owner of an AV Event company. He was shocked that we ran speaker cable throughout the house, he was expecting distributed XLR with amps at each pair of ceiling speakers to be the norm, as he was used to active speakers for live events. He wouldn't believe that thats not how it's usually done!

As long as your source to play internally and externally is only ever going to be C4 music, the controllers are able to play the same stream from multiple outputs, so you could join an internal zone with an external zone. If you had something else playing the audio then this might be trickier. MSGreenf is correct though that a larger matrix would be a better solution and allow for more flexibility.

Seems like a solid plan to me Zaphod

The Araknis 310 router has an SFP port which can be used for LAN or WAN, but it only supports 1GB. For simplicity I would just use a CAT6 cable from the router to the main switch.

https://www.pakedge.com/products/power-distribution/ We regularly use the rack mounted 8 output (which is 9 outputs in the US I think) version, and there is a 2 output version which might do what you want.

Correct, an IO Extender would be the best way to connect all the sensors if they all wire back to the same place.

Not used too many of the Control4 dimming modules myself, but just wanted to advise you to stay away from Grafik Eyes! As they are quite an old design they don't play nicely with LEDs, and have quite a high minimum load per channel and aren't completely isolated outputs, meaning if circuit 1 is switched on then you get a small current leak onto circuits 2-4 which can again cause the lights to glow or strobe when they are supposed to be off.

They certainly shouldn't behave like that, so something is definitely not right. I would ask your dealer to investigate, they may need to RMA if it is faulty, or it may need the WiFi looking at for example.

I'm pretty sure the warranty on all Control4 electronics is 2 years

Thanks for the detail on how to do this @mujtaba.khokhar, we have job coming up with about 6 KLF200s on it and I was expecting a nightmare! Now I have somewhere to start I'm not quite so scared

Sounds like the driver code itself is a bit off if it is constantly reporting 100% all the time.

Would need to see your programming, sounds like there may be programming when a scene is activated which activates the same scene.

That should be all you need, just make sure you are using the correct versions - check KB article 2378 for the list.

There are Homeworks QS drivers available in Composer Pro. Are you a dealer?

There is a shades driver for Homeworks QS shades, but it gets a bit messy if you try to do groups of shades. Someone did release a thrid party driver to help with this quite recently, but I'm afraid I can't remember who. AFAIK there is no driver for a Homeworks QS fan, but I think it should be possible to program around it to get a fan icon on the interface, even if in the background the system thinks it is switching a light on and off.

The old driver that is being discussed above was pretty terrible, the delay between pushing a button and the cursor moving on screen was 1-2 seconds due to how the driver had to talk to the device. There will soon be a new driver out, indeed it was released very briefly and then pulled for unspecified reasons; but we are told it will be released in the not too distant future. Until it is offically out though, best off avoiding Fire devices with C4

Bear in mind as well that if the driver for a source has a code mapped to the button (we use the colour buttons a lot in the UK for Sky/cable boxes, and TVs) then any programming you add here will be executed as well as the code already in the driver.

I'm with Chico, and as a dealer I wouldn't want the liability in case something did happen and the C4 didn't alarm for whatever reason. By all means supliment the alarms with C4 notifications, announcements etc, but I wouldn't use it as the only method of alert for something life-safety related

Yes, only the T3 and newly released T4 series are supported in OS3+

Just been noted on the dealer forums that this updated driver has been pulled temporarily. Apparently Amazon want to hold off for a little while longer until release. For those following this thread, as of today (Friday, November 6, 2020) we have removed this driver from the Control4 online driver DB. Amazon has requested that Control4 delay the official release of this driver for a short time. We expect to release this official driver in the near future. Thanks, -Eldon Greenwood Director, Interoperability SnapAV+Control4

Also worth noting that Control4 doesn't directly "speak" DALI, so you would need a lighting control system in the middle to tell the DALI drivers what to do

Whereabouts in the South?

Amazing, thank you guys. I don't know how I haven't seen that in the 6 years I've been using it!

@Crustyloafer @lippavisual @Thepritch88 @lukas.polivka What do you guys do when you need to use 3.5mm stereo audio? We currently run PW cable, terminate to RCA and then use a little adapter, but I can't help but feel there must be a better way of doing it?

I am currently unable to see threads that have no replies, and it seems to be these threads that have multiples. My guess was people posted, tried to view the thread but couldn't so posted again (and again, and again in some cases). Each time I try to view a thread with no replies I get the below: Sorry, there is a problem There are no posts to show Error code: 2F173/L