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We ran into this on a job recently, swpaping from Blusound system which just wasn't reliable to Control4 audio. To get over the 11 stream limitation we ended up using Roberts RS1 for each of the guest rooms that didn't need to be on the main C4 system. At £18 each they might get someone else out of the same hole we ended up in!

@Rob21 Are you able to try calling half of the screens at a time by changing the Call Group that the DS2 rings? I have seen a few times where trying to call lots of screens at once will cause issues like you are experiencing, although 8 screens I think worked OK the last time I saw this issue, it was 13 or 14 that the system didn't like. If you can successfully call 4 screens at a time, every time, then try calling the other 4 screens and seeing if the issue appears in that group. If both groups of 4 work, then you know the screens are all OK, and it is something settings/bandwidth related on the network

How many screens do you have? When the issue happens do some of them display the screen but not all?

Not familiar with the Heos drivers myself as we stopped using Heos after the few systems we installed all failed in fun and exciting ways (this was when Heos was new, I understand the system has improved since then). Could you do "When Rm1 volume changes" Set Rm2 volume = Rm1 volume Set Rm3 volume = Rm1 volume

Blustream's IP system is great too if you can get in the US

Hi Grant, for dimmable control you would need the 4 relays (for on/off) plus a 0-10v dimmer for each heater (or you could group them all together on one 0-10v dimmer I think - I haven't done it myself to be sure). The best choice for 0-10v dimmers depends a bit on your existing system. If you have Control4 panelised lighting (as assuming you can get wires from the panel location to the heater controls, then the panelised 0-10v dimmer module would be your best bet (C4-DIN-8TV-E). This would let you control all 4 heaters individually. If you have Control4 wireless lighting then their wireless 0-10v dimmer will likely be what you want (C4-TV240-WH). If you had a different lighting control system such as Lutron, then you could use their 0-10v dimmers to achieve the same results.

FWIW you are not alone! We had a job with a square keypad in a surface backbox and just could not get it to fit. Had to swap the backbox out for a flush mount one, then it worked fine.

It also depends what the wireless device you are using for the test is. If you are using a really old PC for example, the wireless card won't be able to get anywhere near 400mbps. Likely not an issue, but worth mentioning!

Make a loop of the 4 core cable at the first speaker, then run on to the second speaker. If you are careful you can strip a section a few inches long of the outer sheath off without damaging the insulation on the inner cores. Cut two cores for the first speaker (at the end of the stripped section furthest from the source), but leave the two cores for the second speaker uncut so they run on without interuption. You can then make your connection, put the speaker into the hole, and then move on to the second speaker. If you do need to cut the cores that go to the second speaker, joining them back together with a twist connector wouldn't be an issue however.

Lairy new colour

It was a buggy mess when it was supported, I think someone forgot to update their documentation

Intercom Anywhere hasn't been rolled into the main C4 app on iOS yet, just Android. C4 confirmed they are waiting for approval from Apple, it is being tested by internal teams currently.

https://tech.control4.com/s/article/2379 has details on all the current drivers, and an email address you can email to request new ones

There is a limit to the number of Spotify Connect drivers you can have in a project.. its either 11 or 12. This bit us hard on a job with 20-something zones of audio, we ended up having to add several small Roberts boxes to the network for the guest rooms which wouldn't be able to join the other rooms, they just output directly to the amps and are only available in their respective room.

We have Unleashed systems out there with up to about 15 APs (all wired, not meshed, although the meshing works nicely if you need to get out of jail). All working perfectly. Large commercial systems, or very very large residential (more than 20APs) would be where I would recommend Zone Director (we have a hotel about to install which is about 45 APs IIRC), unless you have a specific need for a feature that is only on the Zone Director systems (I think they offer more guest network options, but nothing that would ever crop up in a residential system IMO).

Its available on the tech community for dealers - https://tech.control4.com/s/article/2379

It also comes with 1 year of Control4's 4Site subscription, which lets you use the app to control your system remotely. If you have lights/blinds/alarm/locks/intercom etc on the system this is a very useful addition.

Might be worth tagging @andrewalloys on the off chance he has email notifcations turned on for this thread - that was his first and only post and was 2 years ago!

Do you remember the old media player? We sold one, realised it was terrible, and swapped it for a Dune FOC. C4 should stick to control!

Nitpicking a bit but that arrow to me doesn't say "refresh", it says "back". The refresh icon in a web browser has the arrow pointing clockwise (I just checked in Chrome, Safari and Edge, all 3 icons are slightly different but all point the arrow the same way).

Yes, sat/sub systems are designed to give you good coverage of an area without having to crank the volume up and annoy the neighbours. You could put a sat at each corner of the table patio, or all along the flower bed, and the sub in the flower bed too, that should be plenty to cover the Dining area. That looks like a really great space you have btw!

If you are using Neeo remotes and panelised or non-c4 wireless lighting throughout then you really don't need Zigbee at all, it would only be of use for SR260 remotes and C4 wireless light switches. If you wanted SR260 remotes but not the wireless lighting then add a CA1 to each room and run ZServer on there. The remote wouldn't be able to roam the house, but in 99% of the installs I've done the remotes stay in the same room all the time any way. Just one thing that often catches people out, one of the streams of audio from an EA controller is presented on the HDMI output so needs to be converted to digital coax/analog to use with an Audio Matrix. This conversion can lead to sync issues with other zones.

Yeah, if you are able to fit the sub then it would definitely be a benefit to the system. A 4" speaker can only do so much by itself!

If you put audio from a video source into a controller to distribute you will get a horrible delay between audio and video due to the encoding of the audio by the controller. If you can't run wires as Pounce suggests above, you would be better off IMHO taking the audio from the TVs into the audio matrix in each area and tuning them to the same channel if you wanted the football on in different zones.

Welcome to the forum! We do a lot of systems which include Hikvision 7600 series NVRs, and there are also drivers for the 9600, 7700 and 7716 series as well. Which one you pick depends on how many cameras and what amount of storage you need. Texecom Premier Elite has drivers which work well for Control4, no issues there. If possible don't use a WiFi mesh system, run hard wired Wireless Access Points (WAPs). These mean you will guarantee a good signal is broadcast. A decent mesh system can get you out of jail if you get stuck, but if you are starting from scratch and able to pull cable then you should do so. As to which system, as 10 people and you will get 9 different answers! We use Ruckus, it is solid. I have heard lots of people who rate Pakedge and Araknis, and the same amount who do not like them (and the same goes for Ruckus, Ubiquiti etc etc). An EA3 is good for 1 or 2 rooms, if you will be having lots then I would say you would be better off starting with an EA5 rather than having to spend more to upgrade later. Also worth noting that although they are called EA1, EA3 and EA5, one of the audio sources on each controller is on the HDMI output which is not always that useful. My first question is really what stage are you at? Are you building a new house, renovating an existing system, or something else? The answer to that will guide how you should proceed.