Time2Jet

Unifi does provide free and paid support options. https://ui.com/site-support.  If you want real support it cost money.

Not sure how my statement before should be considered a fact.  Its obvious I was stating my opinion.  If you would like to argue that opinion and provide a better one, go a head. Are you suggesting that from now on, on the forum, you must preface all statements with "I Believe" to make sure people don't get confused on a very subjective topic? 
If there is a better one out there, I honestly would like to know.  If there isn't a better one out there, I think my subjective opinion is strong. 
I really like what I see coming out of Homekit/Apple with the support of Scrypted.
Other contenders are the cloud base systems like Nest and Ring which offer a decent user experience.

I would recommend performing a network reset on the controller, and if that doesn't work, perform a factory reset (make sure you have a backup of your project first!)
To reset the controller network settings to the default:
1 Disconnect power to the controller.
2 While pressing and holding the ID button on the back of the controller, reconnect power to the controller.
3 Hold the ID button until the Caution LED (rear ID LED) appears solid orange and the Link and Power LEDs are solid blue, and then immediately release the button

100% Bullet Train Fiber AOC HDMI. Complete support and the golden AVPro warranty. If you’d like, message me and I can quote you.


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Nyce are nice.
About 1" square and 1/2" thick.
Easy battery change and long life.

Axxess for the cool drill hole in top of door drop in ability and includes temperature.

You need to go to the room in he and go to navigators and set the items you want to visible and refresh navs 

I paid for this gear on February 15, 2024 @txc4tech and you ghosted me since.  I have messaged you continuously since asking for tracking with zero response.  You have sold me gear before, so I know you fully intended to ship it and you get busy, but I'd say a little communication goes a long way.  I'm going to need the gear or a refund today please.  And yes, I know this is in open forum, but you gave me no choice.  If you contact me, I can ask admin to remove this post.

There is another version of this fan with model number FV-0510VSCL1 that has humidity sensing built in. Most ceiling fans are a basic metal box with a junction box and a plug that a motor assembly plugs in. In the past the plug was an actual ungrounded two prong. These days a lot of the nicer fans use a molex or other type plug for the fan assembly. There is a very strong chance you can change your fan motor with the motor from the FV-0510VSCL1 in just a few minutes by popping the cover off, unplugging the light assembly, removing the few screws and unplugging the motor assembly and then the reverse with the other motor and control box.
If you go that route you can probably skip a relay.
BTW: I like that model line of fan. Low profile and wall mountable. Also good for basement ventilation since they have one that is a constant on at a low adjustable cfm.

Similar experience with Cleerline. I still gravitate to Bullet Train only because I know the team over there well and know that I’m going to get things working one way or another with them.  Like @lippavisual mentions, Bullet Train also comes with the 5v dongle.  I’m shocked they didn’t find a way to get you situated, they love being challenged.  I wouldn’t give up on them.  Ask to have them take it to engineering.  Like most on our industry, these guys are nerds like us that just don’t take no for solution.   
Again, you are definitely pushing the limits, but it’s pretty sad that you aren’t asking for more than these products advertise they’ll handle.  

I totally agree this is going in circles and an integrator or electrician should be involved to prevent potential death.
You need at least 4 relays if you want to retain the existing functionality. Put them where you want.
A Keypad only has a single relay, but can control any relay etc using programming.
I'm going to throw gas on the fire. You have a two gang box so you can have this:
1 KD and 1 block off plate plus 3 relays. 2 KD plus 2 relays 4 relays wired to existing swtiches 1 KD, 1 double switch and 3 relays 4 relays motion switch and humidity switch 1 KD and 1 triple decora switch and 3 relays 4 relays a blank 2 gang switch plate and Alexa/Josh 2 KD plus 3 relays to split ceiling from vanity 1 KD , 2 relays and smart bulbs ...  
Decide your budget and desired physical human factors experience with the switches.

The first thing they did was send him a second cable, but it performed no better than the first. After that, they refunded his money, and basically stopped pursuing it.
He next got a cable from Tributaries, which had a built-in 5v voltage inserter. That worked initially, but then he found that it also crapped out. They are actively working with him to sort this out.
Man, I hate HDMI!!

Or just two Shelly 2PM and maybe a one or two RC scrubbers to protect with the fan and transformer loads. Depends on total load if you can use the Shelly. This leaves the current switches and gives you automation. Maybe less than $75 plus the Shelly driver. A Shelly 2PM can switch two loads.

This info may be well out of date, but I thought I had read that HDBaseT was limited in bandwidth (10gbps or something like that?), and did use compression in order to get a full 18gbps signal for 4k60. And it wasn't clear if that compression was lossy or lossless.
Secondly, given HDMI 2.1 is gaining traction, needing 48gbps bandwidth, is HDBaseT a non-starter for that type of application?

Per @chopedogg88 - you could try to do the “panelized” hack and hide 2 of the the load controls (easiest to reroute to a closet, etc) for these circuits and install 2 KD’s at the local gangs? This way you control 2 loads locally and the other two programmatically over zigbee.

As @SpencerT beat me to it! Easier would be to grab two Shelly minis and fit them in the 2 gang box behind a KD. Then add the Shelly driver, two KD120277’s and a few bindings (or lines of programming)and boom!


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You could put a Shelly on each of the loads (or behind the switches if there's enough room). 

i had some video devices that needed to be linked

a few more reference documents collected along the way.  and their blog has been a good source for me https://joshdotai.medium.com/
Lastly, their YouTube channel is decent with some new tutorials and your dealer may be able to get you links to some of the past PowerHours.  Those go in depth on some details 
 
 
announcement (1).pdf KscapePDF.pdf Aliasing-Formatting.pdf Josh FAQs.pdf motion sensors.pdf speak quietly.pdf

SCENE.pdf

Nah. But it's possible. The Ikea sonos speakers can be modified for line and bridged to do 100w mono. My design racks them vertical instead of 1u like this one.

 
 

Today, Autonomics (and Sonos) have deeper app integration with Josh voice control than native C4 audio apps. Not sure the techical/licensing reasons, but the workaround for those doing distributed via native streams is to add a Sonos port or more.

To be clear, this isn’t a Josh vs Control4 thread, it’s a Josh with Control4 thread. I have never integrated a standalone Josh system. I have done many Josh systems that integrate “into” Control4 for voice control. The argument cannot made that the synergy is incomparable to any other voice integration. It’s quite powerful and very useful.


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I have a C4 matrix, but considering building a Sonos based multi-zone amp myself using an array of hacked sonos speaker guts. The trueplay intrigues me.

Very good feedback and it’s very much what I would expect.

The “cleanup” is more of a reorganization or some revising of device names. For instance, initially Josh was very particular as to where the device was, vs C4 didn’t much care of you had lighting (for instance from other rooms “unhidden” in a different room), but “areas” solved that.

As for music, I struggle a bit with playing playlists. For example, it’s not intuitive at playing “My Weekend Playlist”, but I don’t have ever scenario on my main Josh (Home) - Sadly, while I’m moving to distributed audio via Mirage or Native with Sonos Port inputs, currently I have HEOS and Micros. HEOS integrates, but you’d want to authorize HEOS in Josh.

For @GregCAMS - have you tried a few Sonos Port inputs into your audio matrix? It adds additional services and tends to work well. Native is so limited today. Usable, for sure, but limited right now.

I’m glad there is all of this banter about Josh integration with Control4. I’m clear this is a Control4 forum, so I definitely don’t care to read about a stand alone Josh deployment. To be 100% transparent, I’m a Josh dealer that has never integrated a Josh system outside of Control4. I can speak to the fact that unless and until there is a real native voice solution, Josh is a fabulous addition to a Control4 system. They don’t fight each other, the synergy created in the driver is powerful for each.


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Thank you. I've made this change and will test it out.

You can't do edgeless and embed microphone 

Funny. I’m using breck also 

Lutron and Vantage are not a home automation systems. They are comfort control brands. They will always be a partner, not a competitor to whatever list of lux brands we make. Josh wants to be the premium software that handles them and besides hardware processors and I/O IR control, a sleek system specific smart remote other brands seem to have difficulty with is the only other hardware piece they need. They will continue to build business on integration with only few critical but really well made hardware skus.