J to the D

Another vote for the Annex 4 driver. I have 4 LG OLED’s with this driver and it’s absolutely bulletproof. The only issue is after a software update you have to manually turn the tv on the first time. 
 
The mini drivers for Netflix etc work great too. 

I think it was $99. I’m my opinion it’s worth every penny. 

I have this issue too. I had no problems before the firmware update and now regularly I get this network issue. I have to leave it for 30 seconds or so and it reconnects.
 
Sometimes it reconnects and then just won’t work. it will turn the tv and source on then nothing else. You have to leave it for a few seconds for it to almost boot up and then it works again. 

Yes, you can set and unset with the Control4 app. This can be both full arm and part arm. 

I have Texecom Elite with both Smartcom and ComIP. My understanding is you need both to enable integration with Control4 and use the Texecom App. If you don’t intend on using the Texecom app then my understanding is you don’t need both modules.
Installation has been done for a few years now and it seems to work well. I have a couple of niggles and looking for a new alarm installer as not many understand the integration with Control4.
With regards to integration, this has been a game changer. I now have the ability to use individual room sensors and door contacts for various programming. I particularly like the ability to turn lights on with alarm sensors.  The ability to have notifications and status along with automatic setting of the alarm has been great. For example, I have an evening routine which automatically sets the alarm at night. There are a few niggles, for example the Part Arm settings are not named so unless your a frequent user or only have one part arm, it can be confusing. I find myself using the Texecom app if I need to set and unset the alarm but this is not frequent at all.
For the small cost difference, I would recommend both the Smartcom and ComIP.

Forgive the reflections, it’s so sunny! 

HYG

I got my Halo last night and got it up and running. It was used a little and then left on the side overnight. Probably been around 14 hours or so and currently at 82% battery. That would suggest it would easily last two days or so which I think is sufficient. 
 
Overall really impressed so far. Definitely feels more premium than the SR260, I just hope it’s bulletproof and just “works” like the old remotes did. I skipped the Neeo so never experienced the issues with those. 

I got my Halo last night and got it up and running. It was used a little and then left on the side overnight. Probably been around 14 hours or so and currently at 82% battery. That would suggest it would easily last two days or so which I think is sufficient. 
 
Overall really impressed so far. Definitely feels more premium than the SR260, I just hope it’s bulletproof and just “works” like the old remotes did. I skipped the Neeo so never experienced the issues with those. 

Would you me able to message me with a quote?

Merry Christmas everyone.

It was very easy in the end. Install the module, load the Yale driver and then three button presses (not 4) on the lock to discover it. That was it done. 

I am currently testing a chime and noticed there are three different streams all of which can be set with different resolutions. Is there a possibility to have the on screen display pickup a stream set to a lower resolution and then the phone/tablet/touch panels pick up a higher resolution?

Not sure where you are based but I would think twice about a MOIP system. Having installed a J+P 3G system recently for distributed 4k video I have unfortunately had to take it back out and send it back. 
 
I am in the UK and despite J+P claiming they can deal with 4k60 it’s actually not the case. The receivers can only receive a maximum of 4k30. In the UK things like sky boxes do not allow you to reduce the frame rate below 50hz which is the PAL standard. The same goes for other sources too. This results in a terrible image on things like football/soccer which is the majority of what I watch. Standard 1080p output worked fine but the moment I tried to watch something in 4k the ball would ghost across the screen. I expect this is because the source was outputting at 50hz but the J+P was only using 24hz which resulted in 50% the frames disappearing. 
 
For me, the J+P concept is far better than a traditional matrix but for now it’s just not suitable for 4k. I will say, if you don’t watch 4k sport, you may never see an issue but for me it just wasn’t working. The solution for me was the HDA MHUB Pro 2.0. So far the system has been great and worked flawlessly. 
 
For others saying they don’t see the point in these systems, I am a little confused. Maybe the UK market is different but I have numerous 4k tv’s but satellite providers such as sky only allow one 4k compatible box which means an av distribution system is the only way to get 4k content to all tv’s. 

Yes Yale and Control4 told me the lock wasn’t supported and I had given up with getting it ID’d. It was only the fact I happened to speak to someone who had actually done it so I gave it a try. 3 button presses and then ID’d in. 
 
My firmware version is 1.1.0 and I think I installed it late 2019. 
 
As for zigbee range I’m not sure as I have a keypad next to the door so it’s never been an issue for me. 
 
Hope that helps. 

I did. It was an easy fix in the end. All you need to do is press the identify button 3 times instead of the normal 4 with C4. 
 
The only think I would say, there isn’t much you can do. Because of the way multipoint locks work you can’t lock the door but you can unlock. The only useful element for me is to get the status of the lock so I know of it’s been locked or not. 
 
This lock does not track user entry or anything as far as I have seen. 
 
Hope that helps. 

Unfortunately they just don’t work properly. iOS tries to open the C4 app to carry out the command and with OS3 taking so long to connect it never works. I am also yet to find out how to push commands into this list. It seems to have a mind of its own. There are better ways to get C4 items into shortcuts by linking it the the HomeKit. 

Ahh I think you’re on to something here, thank you. I have another circuit in the house with a wireless keypad dimmer and a PIR which works no problem. I was expecting the puck to be the same. I thought the puck operated like a switch and basically turned the load on/off? I was expecting the PIR to be the connection to the lights and just feed the puck switch live into the switched live of the PIR. That way if the puck turns on the lights will come on. The issue is the PIR doesn’t seem to like it working that way. 
 
Here is a link to the PIR manual:
https://www.steinel.de/out/media/operationmanual/10259_110073994_BDAL_SENSIQ_ENET_26_SPRACHEN.pdf
 
How does the aux on the puck work? Is it a simple secondary switch so if the PIR turns on the puck triggers and as soon as the PIR turns off the puck will turn off? Of course the puck can be used in a normal way with Control4. 

The circuit doesn’t currently have a switch so I suppose I would need to use a sensor and then C4 puck if I want to manually turn on/off?