zaphod

Are you using Shairbridge from your phone?  Then one advantage is that with Spotify Connect the audio path is from the Spotify server's to your C4 controller and it doesn't use your phone's audio.  That means if you watch a video on your phone that it doesn't pre-empt the audio from Shairbridge, and if your phone rings your phone call doesn't go over the speakers.
Also, I believe that if you leave your LAN the Spotify music will keep playing.
You can also use any Spotify client, including from a PC to start playback and send it to any Spotify Connect device..

ANd here is a thread on Reddit that says 6.30 x 3.10 
 

On second thought, it is hard to say as it is very confusing - it may actually be 5.50 x 2.50 mm.  Here is a photo from the side of the box.  The adapter that fits is third down in the photo with the green ring  But - on the little rack that contains all of the adapters it is the second one down and is labelled "B".    But this is the type of power supply where the individual adapters do "adapt" the main size plug.  It isn't the type where when you take off all of the adapter that there is a bare two or three pins, if you know what I mean.
The adapter that fits has the green ring - so it would be the third down in this photo on the box.   To be safe you might want to do what I did, take the HC800 into the shop with you and make sure you find one that fits.

How does the Zigbee mesh fit into all of this?  If said 10,000 ft^2 has dimmers and keypads in each room doesn't that strengthen the Zigbee network?  Or do you still need another controller (aside from the number of devices per controller)?
Sorry if it seems like I am being a jerk, I am just trying to understand how the Zigbee network works.

If anyone really needs an HC300 I will be happy to trade one for an EA-5, and, since I am feeling generous, I will even do it straight up!

If anyone really needs an HC300 I will be happy to trade one for an EA-5, and, since I am feeling generous, I will even do it straight up!

The EA-1 doesn't have any dry contacts.  It only outputs HDMI, IR and serial.  There is no reason why an additional controller should cause issues, many C4 systems have many controllers - one at each TV.
 

The EA-1 doesn't have any dry contacts.  It only outputs HDMI, IR and serial.  There is no reason why an additional controller should cause issues, many C4 systems have many controllers - one at each TV.
 

This amp is a matrix amp.  The inputs are not tied to each output, they are selectable via the Control4 software, or via the dial on the front of the unit. The folks here will likely prefer Control4 as it is a more open system and can do a lot more than just music.  

Maybe you need this instead:  https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-OLED65R9PUA-signature-oled-4k-tv
Don't know if it has been released yet.

I think the "good" driver is paid.  It is IP based and Roku has a very good open API.  The only thing to beware of is that you can get apps on Roku for everything that you need, including local NZ channels.  That is a bit of an issue with one of the Canadian streaming services.

What about lack of hard transport buttons.  For me that is a big con as my main TV watching is sports and I watch delayed and use the Skip and FF buttons constantly to zip through stoppages in play, commercial breaks, and halftime/intermissions.

Maybe you need this instead:  https://www.lg.com/us/tvs/lg-OLED65R9PUA-signature-oled-4k-tv
Don't know if it has been released yet.

A suggestion would be keypad LED programming.

Something else to consider is a Global Cache device if you don't need AV, just relays and serial.  Like a GC-100.

I still miss the Epic driver as I find that it was WAY faster than the native driver.  And occasionally with the native driver Alexa tells me it is not responding when the command actually works.

Run Cat-6 to the boathouse, and put a Unifi Outdoor AP at the boathouse, and one at the cottage as well.  I have one of these devices on my pool cabana.  The range is supposed to be up to 600ft outdoors.  It functions fine in temperatures lower than you get in Texas.  You can run multiple drops or just put an 8 port switch in your boathouse for more than one device.  

@LollerAgent - Thanks.  That makes sense.  I have ordered a 20 outlet vertical PDU for my rack.

Why is vertical power distribution better?  
1.  Vertical is usually 0U, meaning it doesn't take up any horizontal rack space.
2.  It means shorter and cleaner runs for your devices since you don't have to go up/down with your power runs.

It is funny that you mention that as my first dealer did this when my system was installed about 13 years ago.  I have a sort of closet with a door that closes - behind that door is over a dozen dimmers.
@Northern33 - Control4 is not perfect but it is a very good solution.  The  more that you want to do in the system the more that it shines.  Initially I used C4 for lighting, blinds, HVAC and fireplace automation.  In recent years I added AV control and (almost) whole home audio and it really shines in this sort of environment, especially since you can use voice controls - in my case Alexa.  But some of the advantages are negated if you have a family that is less geeky than you are, or if they have a different schedule - having a Wakeup agent is less beneficial if your wife is staying in bed for a while.

The Ontario microFIT program is kind of the opposite to what you describe in the UK.  It makes no sense to use your own energy.
I also have two meters, one for each consumption and generation.  For generation I earn $0.39/kWh.  But for my consumption I pay from $0.07-$0.14 depending on the time of day.  Why would I want to use my own energy when I can sell it for way more?

It is funny that you mention that as my first dealer did this when my system was installed about 13 years ago.  I have a sort of closet with a door that closes - behind that door is over a dozen dimmers.
@Northern33 - Control4 is not perfect but it is a very good solution.  The  more that you want to do in the system the more that it shines.  Initially I used C4 for lighting, blinds, HVAC and fireplace automation.  In recent years I added AV control and (almost) whole home audio and it really shines in this sort of environment, especially since you can use voice controls - in my case Alexa.  But some of the advantages are negated if you have a family that is less geeky than you are, or if they have a different schedule - having a Wakeup agent is less beneficial if your wife is staying in bed for a while.

It is funny that you mention that as my first dealer did this when my system was installed about 13 years ago.  I have a sort of closet with a door that closes - behind that door is over a dozen dimmers.
@Northern33 - Control4 is not perfect but it is a very good solution.  The  more that you want to do in the system the more that it shines.  Initially I used C4 for lighting, blinds, HVAC and fireplace automation.  In recent years I added AV control and (almost) whole home audio and it really shines in this sort of environment, especially since you can use voice controls - in my case Alexa.  But some of the advantages are negated if you have a family that is less geeky than you are, or if they have a different schedule - having a Wakeup agent is less beneficial if your wife is staying in bed for a while.

I have an IP driver that I have kind of hacked together.  PM me and I can send you the info.  It works quite well but requires a bit of config, such as entering the MAC and IP of the SageTV extender(s).  So they will need to have fixed IPs via DHCP res or static IP settings.  Of course, you will need a dealer to install it if you are not a dealer yourself.

I have an IP driver that I have kind of hacked together.  PM me and I can send you the info.  It works quite well but requires a bit of config, such as entering the MAC and IP of the SageTV extender(s).  So they will need to have fixed IPs via DHCP res or static IP settings.  Of course, you will need a dealer to install it if you are not a dealer yourself.