RAV

I just called tech support for clarification.
An old account upgrading to a Core DOES NOT have to pay for Connect and may fully update to the latest OS!!
Connect ONLY triggers at creation of a new account, and does so for ALL new accounts regardless of processor or OS!
Home sold systems need to either have the previous owner do a change of email to the new owners, or new owners will HAVE to pay Connect for a new account, even for an HC running 2.10.6.
In theory there is a resale value to dead accounts.

I just called tech support for clarification.
An old account upgrading to a Core DOES NOT have to pay for Connect and may fully update to the latest OS!!
Connect ONLY triggers at creation of a new account, and does so for ALL new accounts regardless of processor or OS!
Home sold systems need to either have the previous owner do a change of email to the new owners, or new owners will HAVE to pay Connect for a new account, even for an HC running 2.10.6.
In theory there is a resale value to dead accounts.

Primarily Bug Fixes and Connect Requirement.

https://www.control4.com/docs/product/control4-software/dealer-release-notes/english/latest//control4-software-release-notes-rev-as.pdf

You could bypass the fan output of the Control4 Fan Speed Controller essentially turning it into a KC120 and run the hot direct to the new fan.
Then reprogram the buttons as you'd like. But I don't think you'll be able to 'add' an up/down to the fan controller driver in composer.

But no the KCB is not a choice as it's 48v power and RS485 for panelized lighting. KC120 would be the choice.

Fixed

Probably not you.
Post in the dealer forum about slow loading this morning, reproduced by and service ticket thus created by a Control4 employee.

If you have standard wall plates with screws, you should be able to discharge yourself by touching the plate screw first.
Maybe snapoff the screwless plate for a bit to confirm issue as it'll expose the screws.
Humidifier can help.

Put a Shelly relay inside the box and use the outlet vendor of your choice.

If you have standard wall plates with screws, you should be able to discharge yourself by touching the plate screw first.
Maybe snapoff the screwless plate for a bit to confirm issue as it'll expose the screws.
Humidifier can help.

Our Engineering Team has been working directly with Roku to resolve this issue. With this engagement, Roku has identified the cause and has been rolling out a solution since last evening. It should be complete by the end of the day today, April 5th.
The fix to restore service will be automatic—neither you nor your customers will need to take action. We are monitoring the rollout of the fix to confirm that the issue has been fully resolved.
Apr 05, 2024 - 14:28 EDT

Control4 quoted Roku in the dealer forum.

Control4 quoted Roku in the dealer forum.

Roku has acknowledged the issue and correction expected by end of the week.

Why not add a dryer style duct with a fan with a temp sensor?

Less critters and security issues.

Two buttons.
Open/Close -
toggle door, set variable gap to false
Gap -
Set variable gap to true, open door.
Sensor programming - when gap sensor closes: If variable gap is true, stop door.

Nice.
Liftmaster 850LM

Nyce are nice.
About 1" square and 1/2" thick.
Easy battery change and long life.

Axxess for the cool drill hole in top of door drop in ability and includes temperature.

...or a virtual Sensor driver.

Attach virtual Sensor to a standard garage door driver to provide status.
Run a macro when any door opens, if all closed set virtual sensor to closed, if any open set to open
If Garage All is open when tapped, run macro close doors (if door 1 open close, if door 2 open close etc)

Can be done using an actual relay and contact input. Use the relay to set the 'sensor' through programming. Would be preferable not to loose 2 IO.

Access Control system compatible with Control4, about $2000
https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/pdk-rdrmrk/
 
Linear, No integration, about $1300
https://linear-solutions.com/linear-keypads/
 
Standalone keypad you can hack like in the movies by shorting wires, $500.

Respectfully, you’re going in circles.
Best to discuss further with your installer.

You would have to put it in a outdoor switch type box. It's an indoor keypad, can be AC or DC powered.
We did a closet with one of their pocket door locks, used words as the code. IE: u n l o c k (obviously not that one).

Shelly is a relay (or dimmer) that sits on the WiFi instead of the Zigbee mesh like Control4's devices.
Rather than deal with color and style, the button part is separate, and user provided, and is optional.
The button part has options in setup as to how it will behave. Visit Link: https://www.facebook.com/legacy/notes/2331082316991119/
Typically if you wish to maintain an in room physical type switch, then you use the EDGE option (see link).
This toggles the load each time the switch is flipped, in use it feels like a 3 way switch setup in that up is neither on nor off, but simply the opposite of what the relay is now.
Regardless of whether the light was turned on by Shelly App or Control4 then the next flip of the wall switch wired to the relay will change the light to the opposite state it is in now.
And therefore the Shelly App and Control4 can each still toggle the light regardless of the physical switch or the app used.
 

Shelly is a relay (or dimmer) that sits on the WiFi instead of the Zigbee mesh like Control4's devices.
Rather than deal with color and style, the button part is separate, and user provided, and is optional.
The button part has options in setup as to how it will behave. Visit Link: https://www.facebook.com/legacy/notes/2331082316991119/
Typically if you wish to maintain an in room physical type switch, then you use the EDGE option (see link).
This toggles the load each time the switch is flipped, in use it feels like a 3 way switch setup in that up is neither on nor off, but simply the opposite of what the relay is now.
Regardless of whether the light was turned on by Shelly App or Control4 then the next flip of the wall switch wired to the relay will change the light to the opposite state it is in now.
And therefore the Shelly App and Control4 can each still toggle the light regardless of the physical switch or the app used.
 

I find framing on an object better than using the whole room.
The tub, sink, stove, artwork, fireplace, bed, couch, front door etc.