dcovach

Whatever the invoice says. Unfortunately I don't get to know what my mechanic really paid for the parts and how much he paid the employee to put the parts on my car.....

What about amazon music unlimited?

I can do all this. PM me Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

There is a trick to turn on IP control (SDDP). It's in the control4 driver documentation. PM me if you need help.

I can make this happen. PM me if you need a remote dealer. Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Yes. This is a task for a dealer. Composer HE will allow you to program off the state's of the virtual sensor drivers Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Not sure if this will help but "reset" the app and log back into that system.

A dealer needs to ID it for you. It can be done remotely Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

When you change network equipment, such as your isp, it may need to be re-set up or massaged properly before you can point the finger at control4. In the case of your wireless bridge issue, that could be a number of things or a network conflict. You'll get lots of advise and critique below my post on your network equipment... which you should also mention. Some equipment is not designed for home automation out of the box or not good at all. Especially using ISP equipment to run a control4 system on. Do you know all the networking equipment in your system and how it's set up. What is your primary controller? Here's one... are all your ip devices reserved in the router to avoid conflicts? Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Control4 recommends an 8 or 16GB micro sd. AFAIK, it's not necessary to clone the original. The controller will format the new one and prepare it for use. Once complete, you should be able to connect to the controller with Composer HE and load your previous project. Test it out and keep the old one just in case. * You really need to have the same version of Composer HE as your controller OS version.

Actually, legacy dimmers were forward phase

It depends if each zone/sensor is connected to a virtual sensor driver. The programming is based off those virtual sensor drivers.

Those zones (sensors) still need to be bound to a sensor driver. You can't do that in Composer HE

If you haven't had any luck yet, I may be able to assist when I get some free time. PM me with your email address.

Judging by that picture, it also looks like the garage will always be open. Need to mount the magnet on a 45. Use the other set of holes

I have a feeling it's not connected in your project.... I can fix that... and maybe you have the contact wires mixed up with relays

Those are contact sensors for sure. Not a relay. Where do they run to? Like... are you able to know for sure if those show as connected to contact sensors in the project and not a relay?

Are you talking about a relay or a contact sensor? Maybe you're missing the contact sensor? The relay will open and close, the contact sensor will give you status. If properly set up, the contact sensor should be virtually present as a driver in the project and connected virtually and physically to a contact sensor. eg, on a controller, z2io, io extender, etc... Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

If Roku is ever the video source, you can listen easily from paired blue tooth headphones to your mobile without buying anything. Just open up the roku app on your mobile, select the roku, and click the headphones button. The audio syncs good too. I use the roku ultra only so I'm not sure if older roku model's work this way.

Whether or not it's a fully supported door station with control4, you can most likely still bring that door station into blue iris. It depends if blue iris supports it.... which is more likely than not.

There are a couple of great 3rd party driver options for sale on blackwire. 24 cameras in blue iris would require a decent computer to process all that. Keep that in mind. If your dealer is unfamiliar with this type of integration, I can offer remote service to set it up.

Maybe. Depends how bad the train wreck is Sent from my BBB100-1 using Tapatalk

Something different worked for me once..... I can't remember for sure but I think it took an extremely long hold of the ID button after plugging in and magic happened after.

I never had this problem with an older FireTV but quite frequently with a FireTV stick. Switched to Roku shortly after.

It is a retrofit so always expect a few hiccups. Keep in mind that in 2003 it may not have been code in your state for electricians to run neutral wires to ALL the switch box locations. You will most certainly find them in multi-gang boxes but not always in the single gang (if it wasn't code at the time). Not having a neutral at a switch box location means that you no longer can use a C4 switch (not to be confused with a dimmer). Dimmers don't always need the neutral but you will almost be guaranteed a smoother dim in both directions with LED lights if an adaptive phase dimmer is used with an available neutral wire. Sometimes you can get away with a forward phase dimmer (without neutral wire) and be pleased with the dimming in both directions or maybe only one. Your dealer should know what lights you have and which lighting devices to select. Some dealers will convert a dimmer to act like a switch (in the software) but I'm not sure how long a dimmer will last when used like this. Maybe well past the warranty. Hard to say.