Amr

HYG: On a Windows PC/Laptop:

1)Install Rockchip_DriverAssitant_v5.1.1
2)Install RKDevTool_Release_v2.79
3)In RKDevTool open config file change language to 2, [Language] Selected=2, save file
4)Grap a Data Micro USB Cable, not power one, make sure of this to have successful flashing
5)Open RKDevTool, connect your T3 screen USB to computer while putting it in Flash Mode, for TT press “Power” with “Volume up” while plugging in the USB, for wall I think u press “Reset” while plugging in the USB to laptop or PC
6)It should show one device connected!
7)U go to Upgrade firmware tab, Use "Firmware" to load the image, then "Upgrade" to write the image to T3
8]It should show progress, wait till its 100% complete, and in the screen if all good it will say all is good, now the screen will be rebooted and u have ur T3 back!
9)If you keep getting "Match device type failed, stop running!" try pressing the switch button first in the tool then hit upgrade
10)Update/Downgrade to your latest OS3 release!
11)Google the programs, download and install, use this for T3 image: https://mega.nz/file/gaJl1IrY#pGEN1sIxxyL9v8hXQx9lbNlyZ4rVfHAXBBCcOE1rpMY
You will thank me later, I have a PayPal if you want to donate 🤓 as I had just lost a cheap source of bricked screens that I bought over the past year!
 

Yea that’s it, I didn’t get this part of 2xpsu, turned out to be one PSU per Window, makes sense, for the driver u have 2 options Chowmain and Domaudeo, I have both, same prices

When u r done with your Controller upgrade I think you should take a look @ TriadOne, u can source a used one less than $350 and it will provide u with a seamless zone addition to your project.

Yeah, an EA is definitely a push forward 😄

A UPS as well should protect you from any rise in voltage and some have surge protection as well, it’s very recommended to use it with your main controller!

That’s a $30 of Amazon or eBay, I didn’t change my power supply but I think it was 19 VDC PS like the ones used to power old laptops 😃

I bough an HC800-BL-1 with rack ears and PS @ $50, 9 months ago 😃

My suggestion here depends on where u want to go, I suggest 3 routes:
1) As-Is/HC800 Route:
- Get another HC800 off eBay make sure it’s the BL version that have the Site License @ $75~$100 then restore your project with minimum hassle
- Max OS u can reach on the HC800 is 3.3.0, u can’t move forward
- HC800 doesn’t support Apple Bridge so u going to be stuck to other drivers, IR etc
- HC800 is an old power hourse but it’s discontinued now and if u want to add any new features u will be left with what u have
2) Modernize/2xEA3+IOX
- You have a mid size project, 2 EA3 can drive ur project with the required audio out
- EA will allow u to upgrade to latest release 3.3.2 including adding a Halo remote as well
- An IOX will provide u with the IO’s needed
3) Future Proof/2xCore 3+IOX
- If you have some cash to burn go Core, it will power ur project for the future!
- ZWave, etc
You still can mix a Core/EA setup!

HC800 max release is 3.3.0 not 3.0.0

Well, try to rest it to factory, u need a project backup to be able to restore your project, if it’s back online, image update it to 3.3.0 if u r on OS3, restore ur project. If not online, its may be the flash drive.

I have Pushover and its quiet pushy as well, you can program it to send u any critical alert any time of day with a specific tone, I like it as its customizable, out of C4 echo system which is a kind of HA (Highly Available) of alerts, I also have WhatsApp, Facebook Messenger and Telegram Alerts!

Chill, it’s my opinion as an end user and yes on the greater good am very happy with my SR250/SR260 and my overall C4 experience, thats it am not on their payroll nor am a paid influencer, am sharing my enthusiasm for the industry and my experience with the C4 brand in a C4 forum!

Have no idea, was not referring to any other competing brand as I don’t think there is any competition to C4!

The app died with OS3, 2 options if u have Windows 11, use OS3 Android APK on Android Subsystem of Win11, or use an Android emulator Software to also load OS3 APK!

HYG: On a Windows PC/Laptop:

1)Install Rockchip_DriverAssitant_v5.1.1
2)Install RKDevTool_Release_v2.79
3)In RKDevTool open config file change language to 2, [Language] Selected=2, save file
4)Grap a Data Micro USB Cable, not power one, make sure of this to have successful flashing
5)Open RKDevTool, connect your T3 screen USB to computer while putting it in Flash Mode, for TT press “Power” with “Volume up” while plugging in the USB, for wall I think u press “Reset” while plugging in the USB to laptop or PC
6)It should show one device connected!
7)U go to Upgrade firmware tab, Use "Firmware" to load the image, then "Upgrade" to write the image to T3
8]It should show progress, wait till its 100% complete, and in the screen if all good it will say all is good, now the screen will be rebooted and u have ur T3 back!
9)If you keep getting "Match device type failed, stop running!" try pressing the switch button first in the tool then hit upgrade
10)Update/Downgrade to your latest OS3 release!
11)Google the programs, download and install, use this for T3 image: https://mega.nz/file/gaJl1IrY#pGEN1sIxxyL9v8hXQx9lbNlyZ4rVfHAXBBCcOE1rpMY
You will thank me later, I have a PayPal if you want to donate 🤓 as I had just lost a cheap source of bricked screens that I bought over the past year!
 

One can sideload the app, it’s pretty easy! There is an app on Windows Store that Automates this even!

It’s still by far my favorite remote, using it with my 3 homes blindly, both hands knows what to press and where … Great Battery, no dim screen no nothing 😁 

It’s still by far my favorite remote, using it with my 3 homes blindly, both hands knows what to press and where … Great Battery, no dim screen no nothing 😁 

No fence to any one and holding a huge piece of wood when saying that, my RS-250’s are 7 years old and still going, these are totally different than LED remotes or any other consumable remotes …

It won't.
This is why the path setter driver exists, to prevent this exact scenario
 
 
Unfortunately there is no way to 'see' the whole path, though (driver depending) you can usually trace the path in composer device by device.
It sounds like you have the setup 'correct' (I use that term loosely here as I would argue the whole setup idea isn't really correct) - Sources to TV, TV to AVR for two rooms, TV to matrix for a 3rd room WITH PATHSETTER.
What we don't know is if there are any OTHER paths available (or the system thinks are available) to get the same audio.
First think I'd check is if the matrix is going to the right input: that'll be the big tell on if it sees other possible paths.

Its probably DHCP issues after loosing power, this can be fixed if u have ComposerHE, take a look at the devices IP address and try to reserve it in your router or DHCP server then reboot those devices and u should have your control back!

Yeah, for a green field sure, but for me a Halo Touch is the next best thing from ergonomics perspective, the form factor is greater on hand … Anyways it’s a taste thing …

I think Halo Touch is the right “to go” remote specially with the lined up developments on Alexa, Josh, etc it’s will be the perfect addition to the remotes line up, wonderful news really …

Thanks for the tip, I will take a look and probably will purchase Home +6 it has some cool features!

Hey @Amr! As a fellow heavy Homekit user with 400+ devices between 2 houses, I would HIGHLY recommend taking a look at Controller and Home+ 6. They both include advanced automation controls (they expose automations and sensor parameters unavailable in the Apple's Home app) as well as a life-saving Backup and Restore feature.
Everytime I add new iOS devices, perform firmware or iOS upgrades, or add Homekit-compatible devices I make sure to backup my config. It's literally saved me days of work and I've never been unable to restore from a backup. Check it out and best of luck restoring your system!
https://controllerforhomekit.com/features/backup-restore/
https://hochgatterer.me/home+/docs/features/backup/