C4 User

If you can run 2 or even 3 2” electrical conduits from your basement to the second floor attic. From there you can easily run wires from basement to any wall location.

In addition to all the doors, windows, speakers, etc listed above, I would run 2” electrical conduit from your server room to every possible tv location. If you do this, you are future proofed. I did this 6 years ago and the conduit has saved me a few times now. I have a few doors that I mounted shades on the door itself. In this instance, you will want to run 16/2 and tie it into a power pass-thru hinge on the door. Whereever you have devices that you will want on a UPS, i recommend you have your electrician run the power to that outlet through a switch in your server room. This way you will be able to easily feed that outlet via your UPS (i.e TV’s, office computers, and remote network switches, and C4 controllers outside of your server room, etc).

Thank you. I have a NAS and Plex is available so I will give it a try.

What do you see as the benefits of Plex over InFuse on the ATV? Just wondering as I’ve never used Plex.

I am writing this to Control 4 and to the Dealers on this forum. Although I am not a dealer, I know enough about home automation, networking best practices, electrical best practices, how to inspect and ensure good install best practices, and contract law to ensure any work on my house is performed properly before I sign any contracts and before I pay any final invoices. The issue that seams to come up too often on this forum is that many homeowners do not have this experience and/or know how and get burned because of it (now to be clear I am not criticizing or judging anyone - for example, I am not a doctor and would be the wrong person to do surgery on someone). If i was Control 4, I would set some contractual standards with all my dealers that make them liable for poor workmanship that another Control4 dealer needs to step in and resolve. Although people smarter than me may have thought through this deeper than I have, please trust me when I say I understand all the complexities of what I am suggesting. But if a dealer had responsibility for my name or reputation, I would have some contractual teeth, backed by an insurance policy or deposit, and then I would be sending out customer surveys to Control4 users for feedback on dealer performance. I think such a policy would benefit the many reputable dealers out there, Control4 and us users.

Now we will see if this guy is for real.

I’ve had an ATV in my C4 systems for over 10 years. I have only used the C4 driver. In the beginning, C4 controlled the ATV via IR, but for at least the past 5 years its been IP controlled. It’s been very reliable - only requiring an occasional reboot of the ATV - which is almost always because of an ATV update. I do have my entire system including TV’s, network gear, and my entire rack, on UPS’s to ensure any rebooting is managed by me and not my power utility company.

Happy New Year everyone. Wishing you all a healthy, joyful and prosperous 2022.

I have audio control. If it fits your price point, and you have the right speakers and setup, it’s phenomenal.

I use Axis too with the radar device that controls the tracking.

@alanchow I am installing patio screens with Somfy motors. From reading this forum, it sounds to me like the preferred integration is to use BOND with the Somfy RTS remote over the Somfy URTSI2 smart home automation device? 1. Is BOND the preferred integration method? 2. Does BOND offer 2-way feedback with C4? So if the Somfy remote is used to move the screens, does C4 know it? 3. Can I control the open/close percent of blinds with BOND? I will have 3 large screens that I will want in sync most of the time, but will also want to be able to control independently at times. Will I be able to do this with Bond? Thank you in advance for your feedback.

The Wattbox 700 has been a known issue for years. My dealer changed mine out before I ever experienced issues. At this point anyone that has an older version of the 700 should be working with their dealer to replace it. In my case, I was able to receive the new 700’s to replace the old and the sent old back to snap after the new were installed. Again, work with your dealer. That said, in the end I upgraded my 700’s to the newer 800’s so they would integrate properly into C4.

I assume this motion only activates when the system is armed to AWAY. If so, you might simply program the blinds in this room to close when the alarm system is armed AWAY. Another option might be to move the shade in 5% increments until it is fully opened/closed with a 60 second delay between movements (playing with the increment amount and delay setting until you motion does not get triggered.

Merry Christmas everyone. Yes, great forum and appreciate you all.

No problem here

Does anyone know if the number of presets on the Janus Colour Wheel driver is 8 total for the house or 8 total for each room? 8 for the house seams really low to me.

The Janus Colour Wheel is now working on my IOS app.

1. To make the binding task faster for the remote programmer, create a list of which buttons you want binded to which loads so you are not trying to figure it all out as you go. 2. To remove the bindings in the future, you will simply need a remote programmer to unbind the connections. From there, you will be able to do the programming. 3. If binded properly, your button LED’s will work the way you say. When you are working with your programmer, have them walk you through the options for setting the ACTIVE and INACTIVE states of the Advanced Lighting Scene for your hallway/stair combo. If these are not set correctly, it may not work the way you want. But its easy to fix.

In addition to properly nesting your programming for ON and OFF events to match the DIM event, I would suggest: - change the programming for the ON event to > than 5% rather than using = 10% (it will be more reliable). But better yet, if you move this to the 3rd position as I mention below, drop the IF and simply execute the DIM event if the lights are not OFF and are not >50%. - move the OFF event to the 2nd position and the ON event to the 3rd position (check if lights are >50% before you check if they are >5%). - delete the 3 second delay nested in each event and put one 3 second day above the 2nd event (but not nested) Hope this all makes sense.

You are correct that the way to do this without programming is by having your dealer bind the connections. Binding is the best and most efficient way to set up your lights. I know it sounds like a lot of hassle to involve your dealer. But all this can be done remotely and very quickly, so it should not be to costly. If your dealer is not readily available for this type of remote work, you should reach out to some of the remote programmers on this forum to help you remotely with this type of programming. Of course, you can do this all through programming. Many years ago I did such programming on a house that had about 150 C4 lighting devices. Eventually I had it all converted to bindings and removed the programming. Never went back. Your time is more valuable then that. Spend the money for 1 or 2 hours of remote support. Yes, you many need occasional remote support if you decide to change your buttons, but so what. For the stair and hallway light combo, you will want to set up an advanced lighting scene with these two lights. From there, you can either program the button led’s off of the state of the advanced lighting scene or bind the button to the lighting scene, depending on what you decide. Have fun!

Take a look at the www.AudioControl.com Director M Series network amps. I have two M6800’s and love them.

This sounds great! I think I will wait to see if you make progress. What is your best estimate of a driver if you get the carrier support you need? Please keep us in the loop!

I reached out to my Carrier dealer today and he responded from a cruise in the Bahamas :). I’m sure I am looking at the end of December or even January before I will get this done. Hopefully the functionality I get from this is worth the investment but we will see.

I have two Carrier Infinity systems with 8 zones. Each system has both gas heat and variable speed heat pumps. If you do not have zones OR variable speed heat pumps, you might be able to get away with the non-infinity thermostat but you will still give up much more than variable speed control. You can find more on this elsewhere in this tread. Regarding the app, I use it all the time and find it works great. If its not working for you, you might look at your home network for the cause. I do not have the SAM, but I am thinking about adding it just to test the integration as I would really like to change schedules and temperature profiles via C4. If i do, I will let this forum know how it goes. @samsmoothjazz please do post the carrier developer’s email here. If its a good email, I will share it with the driver developers on this forum and maybe we can get one of them to reach out to Carrier and collaborate on writing a new C4 driver that works off of the cloud API vs the SAM.

@ERDrPC did you complete your carrier infinity system integration into C4 with the SAM module? If so, can you update on which features do or do not integrate?