C4 User

It needs to go thru the setup process again and it specifically asks if you have an ice machine 

If your current dealer does not offer a reasonable maintenance plan to keep your system up to date, I suggest you reach out to some of the remote dealers on the forum for some type of a maintenance plan. 

If your current dealer does not offer a reasonable maintenance plan to keep your system up to date, I suggest you reach out to some of the remote dealers on the forum for some type of a maintenance plan. 

Suggest you consider the DSC IQ4 or the IQ4 Pro. 

If you have an Apple TV, you might find the Infuse App is a better way of achieving this.

Don't twists my words.

That they don't share it doesn't mean they don't obtain it, and that is where the issue would be.
 
Again, Tesla has a lot less POTENTIAL info on you (like your alarm code) than Control4 potentially has.

If you weren't look to make it work then why did you test it? 

I know the Tempest driver is expensive but it is pretty cool

Wow!  CA-10 is super fast.   Migration clean up stuff still in process, but refresh navigators is more than 6X faster and my "count to 10,000" test is 2.7X faster.   I have 32 cameras and they pop up about as fast as I can scroll, and I thought the Core5 on current software was already pretty fast.  I'm impressed.

If you have ever hooked up a computer or TV yourself, I think you could do most things needed for Control4 with the help of a remote dealer (though I don't know how complex your system is). Having had both an in-town dealer and a remote dealer, I think the latter is perfectly fine (and to me, actually preferable, as I prefer to do the wiring myself). @chopedogg88 has been great to work with and there are others on this forum who are excellent. 

Thank you. This was helpful. Has me thinking.

I’ve got two main real world use cases at the moment (a few instances of each) and I am planning more.  
 
First use case is a double gang setup in the main open plan area of our house where the first keypad determines what area the second keypad controls (using 6 pages).  So the first keypad has the following 6 buttons:
1. Atrium
2. Dining Room
3. Lounge
4. Kitchen
5. Outside 
6. All areas
An LED on the above keypad shows which area is active. It defaults to All Areas after 30 seconds of no use.  The second keypad has the following 6 buttons:
1. Downlights
2. Rope Lights
3. Chandeliers
4. Floor Lights
5. Upstairs
6. Downstairs
The last 2 buttons are pass through buttons (so are not impacted by the first keypad) and simply turn off all upstairs / downstairs lights and have an LED to show if any upstairs / downstairs light is on.
The first 4 buttons is where the magic of the driver happens.  If one pushes kitchen on the first keypad then the LEDs on the first 4 buttons of the second keypad instantly update to show if the kitchen downlights, rope lights etc. are on / off.  One can then control (toggle) the various kitchen lights using the second keypad. Pressing the lounge button (for example) updates the LEDs on the first 4 buttons on the second keypad to show the state of the relevant lounge lights and the buttons now control the lounge lights.  My All Areas button is actually Lounge, Dining Room and Atrium (technically the inside areas) and pressing this gives feedback as to whether any downlight etc. is on in any of the areas (lounge, dining room, kitchen and atrium).  Pressing the relevant button (eg Chandeliers) turns on / off all of the chandeliers (kitchen, lounge and dining room). 
All of this is setup via the driver properties and connections so very easy for a dealer to implement quickly.
My second example uses a single keypad in my master bedroom suite and only 2 pages.  The 6 buttons are:
1. Downlights
2. Rope lights 
3. Chandelier
4. Passage Light
5. Suite off
6. Room / Suite
 Button 6 swaps the control for the top 3 buttons between the buttons controlling the room lights only or all the lights in the suite (Balcony, TV nook and bedroom itself).  Button 6 gives LED feedback on whether the keypad is controlling the Room (LED off) or the suite (LED on).  Control defaults back to room control after 30 seconds.
Pressing the Downlights button will normally turns on/off the downlights in the bedroom only.  Pressing Room / Suite and then the downlights button turns on/off the downlights in the TV area and the main bedroom (similarly for chandeliers and rope lights).  For instance, I often press the Room/suite button followed by Rope Lights no Chandeliers to turn on rope lights and chandeliers in the whole area.  
The Passage and Suite off buttons are pass through buttons which do the same thing irrespective of what page (room or suite) the keypad is on.  Again, all of this is achieved via properties and bindings.
My family have taken to the new setup and love it - particularly the first use case above.  I will be ordering new buttons for a number of the double gang keypads at both of my houses and getting a licence for the driver at my second house so that I can implement use case 1 in a number of places.  This has created a lot more flexibility for me using 2 keypads to control up to 36 loads / scenes in a fashion that my family find intuitive.!
Great driver!
Another use that I am playing around with is to use the up / down arrows to change what page of lights is controlled and use backlighting to give the relevant feedback as to what room is being controlled.

Are you sure you can’t get what you need from one of the remote dealers on this forum?

Are you sure you can’t get what you need from one of the remote dealers on this forum?

I do not think this is possible, but someone smarter than me may prove me wrong. That said, you can program the two rooms to follow one another. 

If they will always play the same source and same volume, you may be able to combine them on the same amp zone, depending on the type and number of speakers you have in the bathroom and shower.

LOL, it's only like $10 for an ad free subscription.

You can reboot a router with Wattbox. Switching to an internal audio source in event of internet loss I am not so sure.

I find that many of the “functional” drivers developed by 3rd parties are not necessarily adding new functionality but making the programming on that functionality much more efficient. So you can pay maybe up to $200 for a driver that can save you multiples of the in time or dealer programming hours, or both. 
 
and I’m very grateful for 3rd party drivers such are the Carrier HVAC driver that allow me to integrate more of my home devices into C4. 
 
this is not a weakness of C4 but a BIG plus IMHO. 

For something comparable to what driver Wizard creates, absolutely (but with the added bonus of basic IP Control too).. 
I'd love to see the XML for something like an Alarm panel given all the bitshifting and such needed though.. Even in Lua, the ELK M1 Panel Driver codebase is 12000 lines of code (excluding Lighting / Lock /History Code).  I would assume you'd need to approach something like that differently if you want 100% integration
 
The efficiency of setup and the development backend at this time.. If you take a look at our updated Sensibo driver for instance: https://chowmain.software/drivers/control4-sensibo , as per screenshots, some of the new stuff in Control4 is actually still underutilised by everyone, and we're (all) still catching up. There's a thousand projects every developer out there wants to develop if they had time. 
There is so much cool stuff we can do (many "disadvantages" which are cited for Control4 aren't really disadvantages, and could be fulfilled with a driver, such as Chowmain Light groups). If you look at drivers like our Scheduler driver, its actually a totally custom code too (and end users would never even realise)

That doesn't mean Control4 is the best for every project (Crestron, Qsys, ELAN, RTI all have their applications). There were things I found good about all of the professional Home Automation systems I personally tested (especially for AV. they all perform exceptionally well)
They're all evolving, and all have their own niche. But, there is an incredibly amount of flexibility in these systems which people aren't aware about, because developers are still catching up (few lighting drivers have even fully implemented the full OS 3.3 lighting capabilities yet).
 

Because the topic itself actually flowed from complaints about a Neeo (and Halo) in particular.
Why do you think I responded with a yawn initially?
It was never actually about comparing the two, it's about bitching about something people want to bitch about. Which is fine I suppose, just getting a little tired....

While I agree 100% with the sentiment… I would say the percentages are a bit wrong… it would be the 0.1% who like to tweak and the 10% who get a poor dealer setup (my view - and this is not a dig at C4 or any of the dealers on this forum).  Admittedly many of the 10% won’t find their way here.

Looks like a poorly setup ZigBee mesh (7 meshes in project) and a system that hasn't been updated in a year 

If you would like me to look (no charge) Happy to