RAV

Are the 'front' speakers' in the ceiling? Turning off surround and running 2 channel doesn't accomplish what they need? (may need a power outlet to kill the sub too). Also Dynabox are awesome to control ceiling speaker transfer. https://www.dynamat.com/products/dynabox/ Beyond that, yeah, 2 rooms.

This is how I do it: Get a KASA KP405 plug in outdoor dimmer, I named mine Link. Plug in anywhere in the house, but don't plug a lamp or anything into it. Add a Kasa Driver to Control4 (recommend Chowmainsoft) This device can be seen by BOTH Control4, and by Alexa Routine, and controlled by both systems. So it can relay and trigger events between the two systems. One side sets a percentage, the other does something and resets the Link to off. Examples. Control4 set Link to 10% Alexa Routine - when Link is 10% Announce "Come to Dinner" and set Link to off Alexa Routine - when Ring Alarm is set to Away, set Link to 90% Control4 programming when Link is 90% run Macro goodbye (which includes setting Link back to off) In theory you can set 100 different percentages, so can relay 100 events between Alexa and Control4.

The Zigbee wont work with Control4 currently. Control4 is working towards Zigbee 3.0, but there is zero timeline and no official statement. You can wire those relays to a Control4 contact input and do your programming as you want.

What did you find? Control4 zigbee has special sauce.

Nice. Liftmaster 850LM

You can also use a Lutron Pico remote with a Visor clip rather than your car's button, gets you several buttons and has great range. or if invested in Radio RA already, their Visor Interface ~$300 and learn to your car's built in button.

You'll need an RF remote your car can learn, and a receiver in the house that can interface with Control4. Could be as simple as a relay kit from amazon wired to a contact of Control4. Could be done with a Bond bridge to Control4 and any old ceiling fan remote taught to both the car and the Bond. New garage openers are mostly 433Mhz, older openers were 300, 310, 315, or 390 Try one of these if you're game and let us know. 433 https://www.amazon.com/DieseRC-Universal-Wireless-Transmitter-Controller/dp/B098LHS5RN/ref=m_crc_dp_lf_d_t1_d_sccl_1_2/136-1745826-2404545?pd_rd_w=7ulPS&content-id=amzn1.sym.76a0b561-a7b4-41dc-9467-a85a2fa27c1c&pf_rd_p=76a0b561-a7b4-41dc-9467-a85a2fa27c1c&pf_rd_r=Q0BC88BWQTTBSDYYK0R6&pd_rd_wg=v3Nme&pd_rd_r=a80b34c8-18dc-48cd-abb0-05b435193a5a&pd_rd_i=B098LHS5RN&psc=1 315 https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Receiver-Equipped-Portable-Transmitter/dp/B07V465LLB

fdastoor In case you didn't follow the above, and for future seekers. The LED indicator on essentials devices (like the one you specified) are physically only capable of being blue. But if you make a connection link to that device for a keypad button (KC, KD), then that connection color IS controlled by the settings of the essentials device. Maybe you use pink for all the KD and non essentials in the house. And you make a software connection for an essentials switch closet light to a KD, you'd want to be able to set that connection LED on the keypad to be pink too, (even though the physical LED on the essentials switch can only ever be blue.) So you'd use the color settings of the essential switch to set software button connection link to pink to match the rest of the house.

TLDR details. Maybe that the driver you're trying to use requires OS3.

Nyce are nice. About 1" square and 1/2" thick. Easy battery change and long life. Axxess for the cool drill hole in top of door drop in ability and includes temperature.

Cycle it's power. Either add a POE supply and control it's outlet power, or if it's a POE switch the switch may have a driver.

Zzz

...or a virtual Sensor driver. Attach virtual Sensor to a standard garage door driver to provide status. Run a macro when any door opens, if all closed set virtual sensor to closed, if any open set to open If Garage All is open when tapped, run macro close doors (if door 1 open close, if door 2 open close etc) Can be done using an actual relay and contact input. Use the relay to set the 'sensor' through programming. Would be preferable not to loose 2 IO.

Access Control system compatible with Control4, about $2000 https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/pdk-rdrmrk/ Linear, No integration, about $1300 https://linear-solutions.com/linear-keypads/ Standalone keypad you can hack like in the movies by shorting wires, $500.

You would have to put it in a outdoor switch type box. It's an indoor keypad, can be AC or DC powered. We did a closet with one of their pocket door locks, used words as the code. IE: u n l o c k (obviously not that one).

Respectfully, you’re going in circles. Best to discuss further with your installer.

It's the one Control4 sells for their Linear lighting line. If its for Fun the Shelly (Govee, Hue) is great and cheap, if it's Function (it's a daily use and not just accent, and I'm going to get upset if it goes offline for whatever reason) then DMX or Axxess.

Shelly is a relay (or dimmer) that sits on the WiFi instead of the Zigbee mesh like Control4's devices. Rather than deal with color and style, the button part is separate, and user provided, and is optional. The button part has options in setup as to how it will behave. Visit Link: https://www.facebook.com/legacy/notes/2331082316991119/ Typically if you wish to maintain an in room physical type switch, then you use the EDGE option (see link). This toggles the load each time the switch is flipped, in use it feels like a 3 way switch setup in that up is neither on nor off, but simply the opposite of what the relay is now. Regardless of whether the light was turned on by Shelly App or Control4 then the next flip of the wall switch wired to the relay will change the light to the opposite state it is in now. And therefore the Shelly App and Control4 can each still toggle the light regardless of the physical switch or the app used.

So, is the conclusion: Reserve or Static the TV IP Turn Night Mode Off Use SDDP to add driver, and then change identification to the devices IP address?

Quick Google - no. It's a very closed app selection controlled by Samsung.

If it's high on your must list, have the store load the app and launch it, providing you get to the login welcome, you should be good to go.

I find framing on an object better than using the whole room. The tub, sink, stove, artwork, fireplace, bed, couch, front door etc.

https://unsplash.com/s/photos/kitchen