RobbieF

Hi,
Here is a quick driver that has a few commands you can use for your DS2 programmatically.
The current commands that can be run are:
Enable Day Mode Enable Night Mode Disable Camera API Auth Set Camera Brightness Set Camera Saturation Why? Well I've been having issues (and some others have as well) with the DS2 not working with "Auto" settings for day/night mode. So you can use this driver and C4 scheduler to set the day/night mode at sunrise and sunset.
You can also use the disable camera API auth command with the generic image url attachments driver and run the disable camera api auth command every time the project loads. Bit long winded, but it seems like the best option for now.
 
 
Change Log
Version 1
Initial Release
Version 2
Added set camera brightness/saturation
 
jooced_ds2_misc_commands.c4z

@msgreenf Let me know when this is ready, as I would like to add my Unifi Protect Cameras to Control4, and also implement a Generic Image URL driver for OS 3 Push Notifications

And this will be what makes it a success (or not).  My money would be on success. I have no doubt that the bright guys at C4 know what success looks like...

You can't confirm that. 
And if you actually could confirm that or not, you would be breaking the law. So, let's say you DO have an inside source. You're risking their job and/or their freedom by sharing this.
Conjecture is great. Pretending to have official word when there is no official word is not. It's pretentious and annoying, and if you're actually right, it's reckless.

Years ago I almost walked away from Control4, as it was nearly impossible to find a dealer who was responsive. That said, I ended up working with a fairly new company. 10+ years later, the owner still finds a way to answer the random questions that pop up here and there. Based on buying only one remote and a lock over the last few years,  I doubt I'm profitable for him, but he still provides great service.  I'd like to make sure he's around for many more decades....so anyone looking for a Platinum Dealer in the Norther VA area, feel free to PM me for his contact.

Motion sensor under beds that turns on bathroom light to 40% during certain times and under certain conditions.  So if you get up in the middle of the night to use the facilities it is lite up for you.  For the bedrooms that don't have a bathroom it will activate the hall lights to light the way to the bathroom.

Well  then you definitely use NEO firmware 2.x  and your dealer and maybe even Control4 have no clue about the NEO integration.
I had the same issue. All profiles vanished after a couple of minutes/hours. So after a long and tedious email conversation with Heatmiser support (they had an issue troubleshooting a 3rd party integration) I finally got an answer:
Control4 and Heatmiser NEO only works in the programming mode 7-day. As soon as you set up profiles in the 5/2 day mode and Control4 connects to the Heatmiser system Control4 changes the mode to 7-day and woops all profiles are deleted - and that also happens when you change from 5/2 day mode to 7-day via the NEO app, so that is an intended behavior from the NEO.
So as long as you run the NEO in 7-day mode Control4 integration isn't utterly broken, you can set heat modes and temperatures and that works just fine.

However the NEO 2.x firmware broke the support of running profiles via Control4 programming. Profiles in NEO firmware v1 corresponded to a heating schedule and the attached rooms. But now with firmware V2 a profile contains only a heating schedule an no associated rooms - so if you run that via Control4 program nothing happens because the NEO hub has no idea on which rooms to run the profile on.
On order to get the old functionality back Control4 would need to do make one the two updates to the driver:
1 - it needs to run recipes instead of profiles but that isn't supported by the outdated driver.
2- When I go to "extras" in the Control4 GUI/OSD I can see my profiles and I also can load them correctly into the current room - but to change all my rooms I have to manually use the Control4 GUI and selected each room and then manually load the profile by hand - which is not acceptable.
Theoretically I can load a profile via Conrol4 programming and therefore create a macro to apply profiles to certain rooms but that option is "greyed out" in programming - if that is changed the full functionality would be available.
 
This problem represents the major issue I have with Control4 business model:
They are too far away from their customers. If the dealer is an not interested , doesn't understand the issue or his Control4 contact doesn't understand the issue there is no way to solve it.

Honestly, an echo dot is $40. Why wouldn’t you want to do it ‘right’ for that cost?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It certainly works well and the Amazon Polly TTS engine is great!
@Gary Leeds UK: a couple of hints on programming:
1. Create a separate announcement (polly1, polly2 etc.) for every different set of rooms you want audio to play in. E.g. I am looking at PollyWholeHouse, PollyOutside, PollyBedrooms, PollyUpstairs, PollyDownstairs and PollyMainBedroom
2. I find it useful to put the Polly execution in a macro and use a string variable for what Polly says. E.g. a simple set of commands for me would be:
-> PollyString = ‘Good night sir” (after all,  no one else calls me sir)
-> execute PollyMainBedroom macro
where PollyString is a string variable I created and my PollyMainBedroom macro includes the following two commands:
-> PollyAnnouncement (PollyString,,,,,) using the PollyMainBedroom driver
-> Execute PollyMainBedroom announcement
Excuse the syntax which is all wrong as I am not in front of my PC but you get the idea.
 
What I have described above is way more complex than necessary but makes it very versatile for future programming.
 
Injecting variables into the string is easy and you can do something funky things as Eddy has pointed out.
 
I’ve even tried emailing my personal Gmail account with a message titled “C4 Polly” and have it speak the body of the email... Using Alan’s IFTTT driver to get the email into a string via Pushover. This freaked my wife out... probably because I sat at the office and emailed “I’m watching you” which then was played through our bedroom speakers . That almost spelled the end of my relationship with C4!
 

Buoy can detect the difference between a toilet flush and the sink running.  You could make an announcement if someone fails to wash their hands after flushing if there was a driver😀

And the Script to make all of the icons is this one:
 
In order to use this, all you need to do is open Photoshop (I was using CS5); and go to:
File --> Scripts --> Browse, and Browse to the location of the script.
It will then prompt you to Open your Pre-prepaired Square PNG (Min size 140x140)
Choose the Location to save the output
Done!
Create Control4 Icons.jsx

I’m not home now, but my shades are all inside mount.  The CAT6 comes thru top of the window frame is 2 inches back from the front and two inches from the right side.  You only need about one foot of lose cable.  I have dual shades in most windows, so run two CAT6 to each window if you want dual shades.

Samsung announced SDDP with Control4 last year... it was supposed to be in this years models. I’ve not had a Samsung tv to play with this year I’ve just pushed Panasonic due to them having ip control and SDDP. Let me get a hold of one and I’ll let you know what I find 
Muj 

I do have perimeter beams but have no idea what make they are 🙈. My alarm installer put them in and connected them to my DSC system. They work great but no idea what they are!
My alarm installer also put an LED up outside the house.  My understanding is that it was a standard item for the DSC alarm system. It shows as green when disarmed and ready to arm, flashing green when disarmed but not ready to arm, red when armed and flashing red when the alarm has gone off. Works well and your alarm installer should know where to get this.

What I have done (which is not quite the same as you are asking but may prove useful) is as follows:
I have created custom buttons (I have used a checkbox from Alan’s driver but there are numerous options) for each zone on the security page. When these are checked, I bypass the relevant zone. When they are unchecked, I leave the relevant zone in play (as per the mode chosen). I’ve found this very useful for 2 purposes (when I’ve had a broken sensor, this allows me to bypass it from anywhere in the world, easily and semi-permanently and when we want the alarm on but access through one zone - e.g. we may want to leave our bedroom balcony door open on a hot night but still arm the system).
The following is useful to consider:
1. You can either do the bypasses based on the check boxes before programmatically arming the system which will then only work if you arm via a Control4 custom button, experience button, keypad , schedule or other programmed action; or,
2. If you want this to bypass irrespective of how the system is armed (including via a DSC remote, the DSC keypad, the Control4 security keypad as well as the methods outlined in 1 above) then the secret is to set up a macro to run whenever the security system disarms or after the checkboxes have been changed.  The macro decides what zones to bypass and bypasses them.  Then when you next arm the system, the zones are already bypassed.
One last point to consider is that if you follow option 2, the best way to deal with setting bypasses after changing the checkboxes is to activate a timer (say 1 minute) after changing a checkbox and when the timer expires run the macro.  This allows you to change as many checkvpboxes (bypasses) as you want without flooding the IT100 with commands.  You also need to clear all bypasses before setting the new ones when the timer expires.  This step is not needed after disarming the system as all bypasses are cleared automatically when a DSC system is disarmed (at least, that is my experience).
 

If you bypass lots of zones, I would suggest upping the 250ms to 500ms and putting a 5 second delay I between each of the bypass commands... my experience has been that this is great but the IT100 is quite slow to respond after the buffer is full.

no problem
with the driver I have for the IT-100 it is fairly easy.  I just put a line of coding in for every key stroke needed on the panel assuming you were doing something direct on the panel.  I put in I think a 250 millisecond pause between presses just to make sure they are doing in proper sequence.  is it needed I dont know, but I did it anyways.
so
press *
250 millisecond delay
Press 1
250 milli delay
Press X
you get the idea

I use custom buttons to do this with my DSC alarm.
I create a macro that recreates what you need to press on the DSC keypad.  example you want to skip a zone - so the macro would be press *, press 1, press zone #, press *, press #, press #, press # press away.  that would skip a zone and put on away - I have my glass breaks like that so if I have someone coming to fix gutters or work on the roof or something I could turn off glass breaks while still keeping windows armed.   
on my interface i have those 4 corners with drop down custom buttons.  I have 4-5 alarm modes outside of stay/away and I have the 4 options right there to pick.  works perfect every time.  again I have 4-5 examples of this type of programming

youre right, UK samsungs do not have WOL or IP control. Samsung has the technology but takes things out per region

Yes, i used this in my home, on my Sony 55X8500E.
 

Shout out to Synnetic for making the Plex mini driver with icon appropriate goodness.  Much appreciated sir.

Yes but 22ga is a bit small..
 It will work for a short run and light load. Try using 18ga for 50' run and 16ga for 100'+ 
Be aware of not overloading you power supply, decoder or cable line.

You can easily run up to 150-200' on 16GA 24v. Don't do it on 12v. Also a low voltage system is very versatile and can use some locally powered lights by keeping central control if the cable run is way too long. In that case, the cable run will be for dmx signal and not dc voltage for led.

Chowmain is pleased to release the TP-Link Smart Home suite of drivers for Control4.
These products can be retrofit as they are wifi based (no hub required) and are extremely cost effective with bulbs starting from $19.99USD MSRP, smart plugs/outlets starting from $24.99USD MSRP and wall switches from $39.99USD MSRP.  Products are easily accessible and can be purchased off the shelf from major retailers such as Best Buy, Walmart, Harvey Norman and more.
The majority of the products do not require any electrical installation and  as such can be installed in minutes.
Integration includes
full two way control/feedback on/off dimming color saturation temperature Auto discovery and self healing means you don't need to set static IP addresses on the network.  Just install via the TP-Link Kasa app and add our driver in. Ability to connect driver to keypad buttons (with LED feedback) to allow for quick on/off/toggle programming Ability to use energy monitoring in HS110 outlets for automatic selection and room off of Playstation, Xbox One, Nintendo Switch and other manually controlled device For more details click link below.
 
https://www.chowmainsoft.com/tplink-control4

You don't need a five channel controller. For four tapes, Five four channel controllers works just as well. 
In the programming you map the tape channels to driver channels to the control4 setup