SMHarman

Third the suggestion about. The Room TV uses the paid driver as the free one does not do the TV on off Control

Josh AI interfaces well with SONOS. A single SONOS connected to Josh and then connected into a matrix will give you a lot of the functionality you need.

I came here to say exactly the same thing. I don't think the OP needs to spend money on shiny new WiFi as the current is fast enough for any known use cases. More importantly it works.

I would imagine it would be a challenge to hear the current draw of a few LEDs through the noise of everything else in the home. I'm finding it hard enough to train Moen Flo that my water ph balancer is cleaning / backflowing 80 gallons every 3rd day and this is not a flood event. I can't put that in a Moen Flo ignore rule because it is not on every Wednesday or something but every 3rd day. Wouldn't it be easier to put a heat sensor in the stove extractor or the oven heat vent or somewhere that would notify the oven was on. From their website Low-wattage consumer electronics like computers, smart devices, and game consoles can be especially tough to track. As we get data from more and more homes, the performance and coverage of our device detection will improve. In the meantime, many of our users have had great success tracking these more challenging loads via our smart plug integration. Learn more about the machine learning technology that undergirds Sense here. Also didn't Sense just get aquired, is there a commitment that this support will persist post aquisition?

This. I had similar problems. Blamed my owned equipment, replaced it with their equipment found the same problem. Replaced the drop from my roof to the modem / internal cable and then I had to schlep their equipment back to them.

Your new roku needs the same in address as the old one. Your new roku needs the setting checked for ip and app control. Don't think you need a dealer.

I used these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZQ43AI#Ask And the materlink multix and driver.

The motor just needs to be shorter than the window / tube. It sits in one end. Both ends have the required caps for the tube size. One of those caps will have an x in long motor on the other side of it.

Few things to unpack here. 1. One powerwall is not whole home. You would need two. 2. You depleted the powerwall but you have solar on the roof that will replenish them during the day. So depending on time of year and sunshine and energy draw two PW could get you from 3 days to 6 days off grid. One PW on essential loads. Oil pump and heat circ pump, lights (led) fridge, microwave TV and Internet could keep you going days or have a dead spot between say 2 am and sunrise. On the dead before outage they communicate with the grid and weather and if a weather emergency is declared they top off and preserve content. In some esco situations they will even top off from the grid. Point being you should not start a storm depleted. Energy arb is a thing. Powerwall saved the solar industry in Hawaii as they time shift energy. You can buy energy from the grid midday when cheap and consume powerwall 7pm when expensive In MA you can also opt to sell to grid when energy is in demand. So for whole home 2 PW should suffice and the increased upfront cost be offset by 1) tax incentives 2) no maintainance costs 3) energy arb and credits.

Masking tape and a rattle can of silver paint?

In this day, why a generator not Tesla Powerwall or similar. Zero maintenance, no startup pause or power flicker. Often big rebates from tax breaks and the utilities having access for brownouts. My $30k solar and Powerwall has a 5 year ROI.

Has a RCA cable come lose impacting the grounding of this speaker?

The 4 zone matrix seems to be rock solid. The 8 zone less so but better than the PAMP that followed. I sold a rock solid 4 zone matrix on eBay and bought another recently. My other system had a 16ch matrix B which is soon up for sale and and AMX 8 zone class d that looks a lot like the triad amp. The matrix only came out because a triad 8 zone matrix appears for cents on the dollar on eBay and I snapped that up.

How many do you want to add! A 20A 120v circuit is 2400W. The Triad 8 amp is 130W of current draw. Unless you want to Marry McFly your speakers and house this is pretty much a non issue. Another data point is my Sony STR ZA1100 ES. That peaks at 290W. And 0.3W on standby. Curiously the 5000 model also peaks at 290W. Must be the peak the transformer can pull.

Have you looked at your local energy supplier. For example Masssaves has the ecobee3 for <$30 at times. Your energy provider should offer similar discount programs.

Moen Flo has sensors and the control valve. The sensors are wireless.

I actually used an abandoned central vac tube to get CAT from the basement to the attic and get new thermostat cable from the basement to both upstairs levels.

Or the August Yale products.

I'm upgraded.

So you HDMI to analog the EA1 outputs?

Before you delete things you took a backup right? So... When was your last backup. Can you restore that. If you have 4Sight there should be a backup you can restore from to fix this. Alternately, a remote dealer here could fix this by reprogramming.

It does not work like that. The EA3 would be providing one of the digital or analog audio streams to the bar. The HDMI streams would go to AVR or TV. In the example above there are 11 audio zones but (my guess) 2 of those are AVR zones and get their own unique audio stream from the EA3 and EA1 respectably. The other 9 audio zones share two audio feeds through a matrix to the relevant room.

The audio is designed for one HDMI zone. The 1 is the number of audio zones. Or 3 or 5.

You can but once you start navigating around it will eventually impact the music stream.

Triad One would be the gold standard solution. https://hometheaterreview.com/control4-triad-one-streaming-amplifier-reviewed/ Alternates could be HEOS and SONOS amps.