SMHarman

Yep. Delete all the programming. Install the Control4 power amp driver.

Build virtual bindings for the rooms and sources.

Bind that relay.

Job done.

Your programming overthinks something C4 already wanted to save their dealers hours programming.

Let me Amazon that for you.

Can you not use the Denon as a matrix to the second screen?

*Hijack* (sort of) and back to TiVo, like Mitch said “the death of TiVo has been coming for 10 years”. Funny thing is that it is by far the best DVR/PVR box on the market, albeit in most parts of the country you still need to subscribe to cable (OTA just isn’t reachable for a large percentage of the households). It is the box of choice for celebrities and professional athletes and I personally was customer #428. I know this because 4/28 is my birthday and it always stuck with me. I have purchased and sold approx 25 lifetime boxes as technology evolved (I have 2 Bolts for sale right now! to upgrade to Edge). I’ll take my chances. But all is not roses, here’s where it fails.
 
1. There has never been enough apps, if they’d have negotiated app deals, then no one touches the latest model “Edge”. I don’t hold my breath. Very stubborn company that is trying to become a content creator. That is working for others, but not before a major enticement by providing a gazillion apps, HDR, Dolby Vision, Atmos and so on to build their base. TiVo has the 4-5 major apps and a few less than stellar apps, but is now trying to launch their own Channel. If TiVo fails, this or my next issue will be the reason.
 
2. Roku, Fire, Nvidia, ATV, Chromecast etc, they don’t try to sell me something every time I turn them on. I feel assailed (albeit Mitch says your can opt out with a call) every time I play a recorded show (they tag an ad now before your recording plays). Ads for TiVo Plus show up on every page of my guide. It’s ridiculous as of a few months ago. I hope when I do “opt out” via a call to TiVo, that I’m one of many letting them know they’ve made us loyal feel assailed. But I’m not holding my breath. They’re so so stubborn.
 
Other than that... haha. I love TiVo. Love it! Wow, literally changed my life 20 some years ago. (I have no idea what year, but it was year 1 week 1).
 
During my latest updates in the Spring, I seriously pondered using local minis behind each of my displays and using the TiVo remotes. This really works, albeit I wouldn’t have access to a BluRay player for the single RedBox BluRay I rent each month when I stop at the grocery.
 
I thought, what other reason not to? So, I did a hybrid. I actually do use minis in 3 display zones. One is a Roku TV and the other has an Xbox. The last is a tiny kitchen TV.
 
I was on the cusp of the 4k mini, so it was new. That’s good.
 
This system works and works well. It’s a cheaper piggyback than any matrix I know of. I still use SR260’s to add complete automation control to each room (lighting, security, TStats, and because I also have EA1’s local, OSD and music to include grouping sessions). (I have sonos bars in each Zone, but the kitchen which has 4 Sonos speakers. What apps I can’t pull from TiVo I pull from the TV mini apps or the Roku TV apps and in the loft I have BluRay and added apps from the Xbox mounted behind and also I guess the Vizio TV apps. Point is why not Tivo? Only reason I can think to need a matrix today is if you have a large catalog of movies on discs or NAS. I paid $3k retail to extend to two rooms over HDBaseT just to see a movie on BluRay once a month in one room or the other. I get my main zone is fed by an AVR 140’ away, so extension made sense and since the Denon I use as a matrix had a second output and many inputs I added a second zone for $1500 extended. (I know I paid cost for the system as a dealer, but I spent a boatload “without a whole house matrix”.
 
Anyway A/V-wise it’s a lot of mish/mash, but it’s a very clean looking setup everywhere.
 
Okay, I’m done. I love TiVo. I could have just said that.
 
 
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Living room
Kitchen
Master Bedroom
Guest Room / garden
You asking how often they displaying the same content is really funny because I do not think i have changed the inputs / outputs on the existing matrix for years. Living room & master bedroom are using the main SkyQ box and the Kitchen / guestroom/Garden share a SkyQ mini. the 3rd input is my blu ray player which I dont think has been switched on in over a yr. the 4th was a games console which i have now disconnected. I think anything else but local would be ridiculous given my current requirements. In fact might as well keep the 2K matrix to distribute the sky Qminis as they cant't handle 4K and send the skyQ 2TB(4K) ( via my Denon) through a HDBT extender to the display in the Living room.

I am generally not a fan of distributed video since local video sources are so cheap. Like a Roku ultra

Which country do you reside in?

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I know - but that is a lot lower on the geek cred scale!  Having a computer floating in your pool powered by solar power - now that is cool!
I was using this as a project to learn more about how to play around with hardware like the Pi, including power supplies, solar panels, batteries, etc.  Not very practical for various reasons.  Far better would be being able to easily insert probes of various types into your pool pump system.
I have done something very similar to what you suggest for monitoring temps of my rooftop evacuated tube solar heater.  I have temperature sensors taped on both the inflow and outflow pipes.  That let's me so how much the water is being warmed via a web UI. Here is an example of what it looks like.  You can clearly see when the pump turns on and off and then see the max heating around early afternoon.

 
 

I'm not sure all IR on the EA can become other things.

This gives discreet volume on all inputs to your amp. And muting.

So my home I installed panel lighting and dmx which means any future buyer is wed to some form of controller, however it was also built with the concept the next buyer may not want any other form of automation so I could leave it with a EA3 (back then an HC250) on a wall plate and all the lighting would likely carry on almost forever without any intervention by the buyer.  
This aspect of the system should just work.
 

I’ve had C4 since 2010. It costs me $149 Cdn/year for 4 sight. I use Composer HE for most programming. I touch base with my dealer a couple of times a year, usually to ask a question or deal with an issue after an anomaly, usually caused by a power outage or user. My cost is >than $500/year all in unless I upgrade something. I’ve added to my system over the last 10 years, adding lighting primarily. That is the most stable and dependable element. I have it tied into my security as night lights, wake ups, turn off lights my kids don’t, etc. all that time I’ve had issues with one switch. During that same time, I’ve had issues with 3 or 4 Leviton motion switches crapping out. Net cost advantage has been to C4.
Biggest thing with C4, like a car mechanic or realtor, find one you get along with and trust.
Personally, I recommend keeping it and seeing if your concerns pan out. Use the services of a dealer on this forum. They’re top notch, and you can see their feedback. You can do pretty much 100% remote if you can plug in a receiver.


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You would need relays not ir for muting. One for each channel.
 
Not sure your budget but it's likely easier to her the C4 4 zone matrix amp or a c4 audio matrix on eBay than faff with say an iox for more relays and the programming.
 
 
 
 

No cheap solution is there yet ... Doorbird, N2 and the likes is expensive as well!

phillips hue has some great light strips.

or tp link - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Multicolor-Required-Advanced-KL430/dp/B07Z4HGPYT

There are Philips Hue LED strips but they are expensive.  Or you can buy generic LED strips and use various controllers that you should be able to control in C4.
I like these as they are controllable by Hue:  https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3GYD6NHOXOXUT&keywords=dresden+elektronik&qid=1577996125&sprefix=dresden+ele%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3
And I think you can control Magic Home / Lux devices in C4 as well. Like this:  https://www.amazon.com/AMXXON-Lights-32-8FT-Controlled-Android/dp/B07N2KGKH6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=magic+home+led+light+strip+controller&qid=1577996218&sr=8-2

Mine went onto a din rail in a c4 panel.White on the right is 4 core cable to the led tape.
Yellow is the com cable for try dmx bus
Black and white on the left is 110 for the transformers.
LV and HV is mostly separated. The transformers have LV and HV on the same side so it's not perfect.
 

 

Mine went onto a din rail in a c4 panel.White on the right is 4 core cable to the led tape.
Yellow is the com cable for try dmx bus
Black and white on the left is 110 for the transformers.
LV and HV is mostly separated. The transformers have LV and HV on the same side so it's not perfect.
 

 

Any pics of the panel, I’d love a nice panel to run all my rgb too it’s just a big rats nest in my closet

http://wiki.gohts.com/tiki-index.php?page=Speaker+Wire+Color+Codes

So connect the black and red of the two core to the black and red of the four core.

The black and red are then the left channel pair in the hole with the two core.

The white and green are the pair for the right speaker.

Connect to the amp at the other end with the same wiring arrangement and boom tikka tsk, away you go.

http://wiki.gohts.com/tiki-index.php?page=Speaker+Wire+Color+Codes

So connect the black and red of the two core to the black and red of the four core.

The black and red are then the left channel pair in the hole with the two core.

The white and green are the pair for the right speaker.

Connect to the amp at the other end with the same wiring arrangement and boom tikka tsk, away you go.

Then without seeing it I'd have an amp and a controller on each location and then bind that all up and let C4 handle the pathways.

The same source on both sides would be transmitted across the cat / network and then decoded to analog in time on both controllers to get synced audio.

I don't know what else is in your system. One of these could be your main controller.

Both of these could be HC800 if cost is an issue but that won't get the hires audio of the EA chipsets.

Oh don't get me wrong, this wasn't anything against the rest of the thread at all, just a general comment on such ratings (by ANYONE)

Yes. It is a true switch, that's the relay clicking.

if one can read between the lines.....oh the suspense.