South Africa C4 user

I do have perimeter beams but have no idea what make they are . My alarm installer put them in and connected them to my DSC system. They work great but no idea what they are! My alarm installer also put an LED up outside the house. My understanding is that it was a standard item for the DSC alarm system. It shows as green when disarmed and ready to arm, flashing green when disarmed but not ready to arm, red when armed and flashing red when the alarm has gone off. Works well and your alarm installer should know where to get this.

Good luck... let us know how it goes. My best advice is use longer delays than you think are necessary. I found that once 4 or 5 bypasses we’re being executed, the delays required seemed to increase exponentially.

What I have done (which is not quite the same as you are asking but may prove useful) is as follows: I have created custom buttons (I have used a checkbox from Alan’s driver but there are numerous options) for each zone on the security page. When these are checked, I bypass the relevant zone. When they are unchecked, I leave the relevant zone in play (as per the mode chosen). I’ve found this very useful for 2 purposes (when I’ve had a broken sensor, this allows me to bypass it from anywhere in the world, easily and semi-permanently and when we want the alarm on but access through one zone - e.g. we may want to leave our bedroom balcony door open on a hot night but still arm the system). The following is useful to consider: 1. You can either do the bypasses based on the check boxes before programmatically arming the system which will then only work if you arm via a Control4 custom button, experience button, keypad , schedule or other programmed action; or, 2. If you want this to bypass irrespective of how the system is armed (including via a DSC remote, the DSC keypad, the Control4 security keypad as well as the methods outlined in 1 above) then the secret is to set up a macro to run whenever the security system disarms or after the checkboxes have been changed. The macro decides what zones to bypass and bypasses them. Then when you next arm the system, the zones are already bypassed. One last point to consider is that if you follow option 2, the best way to deal with setting bypasses after changing the checkboxes is to activate a timer (say 1 minute) after changing a checkbox and when the timer expires run the macro. This allows you to change as many checkvpboxes (bypasses) as you want without flooding the IT100 with commands. You also need to clear all bypasses before setting the new ones when the timer expires. This step is not needed after disarming the system as all bypasses are cleared automatically when a DSC system is disarmed (at least, that is my experience).

If you bypass lots of zones, I would suggest upping the 250ms to 500ms and putting a 5 second delay I between each of the bypass commands... my experience has been that this is great but the IT100 is quite slow to respond after the buffer is full.

I just learned something new about Guest Services! Thanks Alan

I must say, this topic is way above my pay grade but sounds interesting!

I used the Dune Solo 4K for a while and it was very good but I have moved on to using InfusePro on my AppleTV4K to play all my HD and 4K content from my NAS.

Zaphod Beeblebrox and here I thought this was just any C4 user...

@alanchow - I know the market is way smaller, but how about doing this for DSTV and Showmax in South Africa?

Now I’d pay (lots) to do that... but don’t think it can be done anymore... ???

Full reboot is probably the best option. If that fails call your dealer... is it definitely white (speaker) noise and not the fan? I seem to recall having had the fan go in one of my older controllers and it was noisy.

Do either integrate with C4?

Now that would be cool!

I must say that the native C4 irrigation driver has come a long way since its launch a year or two back. While it is no Rachio, it is simple to use, free, allows pause and resume and zone control all natively from C4. It links with a weather underground setup and is actually pretty cool. My irrigation is wired in through an old C4 I/o extender. While I don’t use a Blackwire irrigation driver, it is worth punting their emoji driver which I use to get a nice pause / resume button which changes look on pause or resume.

The brushed steel and black combination is by far the best. This is what I have and what I’ll be putting in at my beach house. Nothing else compares. Sheer class!

I use a mixture of this (although I use a room number and not a string), fuzzy logic (as described by @jfh (admittedly, I only use motion sensors and not geo location) and over-ride voice commands (which I allow a voice command to set the room number for the period of one hour whereafter it reverts to sensing and motion sensors). The key is to program things so that if (when) Amazon finally allows us to identify which Echo was spoken to, all one does is use that to set the room number (or string) and delete all the other code that sets this currently. It is not perfect but works not too bad.

And this one!

I like this idea!

Some people (not me, I started down this route but moved on to testing the audio sensing route) have had succes attaching a light sensor to the ring of their Echo Dot and thus picking up when the blue light comes on. And yes, it probably is overkill and it would be so much better if Amazon would simply expose the Identity of the Echo being spoken to - but I am not holding my breath.

You can also run the output from each Alexa to an audio input on, say, an EA controller and then use Audio sensing to determine which Alexa is active and use that to add the logic to the programming. The other option is a light sensor next to the echo to pick up when the blue light lights up. Neither route is easy to accomplish, but both have been done.

Yeah, my dealer was happy to install the steam room speaker in the roof but adamant that the sauna speaker had to be installed low down for heat reasons. I ultimately went with the “its a steam room, audio quality is not the most important thing” and said we should install both low down and minimize the risk of damage. In our main home, we have dual coil speakers in the kids bathrooms and the quality is fine. We also have a steam room and sauna in our main home and I do wish they were both automated (linked to C4 with, at least, on and off functionality). I find that an hour is needed to get the sauna up to temperature and while the steam room can be used quicker, it is nicer with an hour to an hour and a half eat up time as that warms up the granite bench and wall tiles and gets the air temperature up to (a very pleasant) 50 degrees Celsius. My dealer plans on hacking the units we are putting in at the coast to get this functionality as we have had no luck finding a driver.

Yes, my steam room is a 2m by 2m separate room with an L shaped bench seat and the plan is to have waterproof speakers and a separate zone. Similarly, the sauna is a separate zone, in both cases, the speakers are under the seats at floor level where the heat is less intense. I like the Experince Button integration idea. In your case, I would also recommend a separate zone. My theory is that is always easier to merge zones (setup) than split zones (wiring and hassle).

I’m a month or so away from installing a Tylo heater in the sauna and Helo steam generator in my steam room at my new beach house. Both have pretty cool native apps, but I’d love to see them integrated to C4!

Not sure if this will fix your problem... but worth trying. Choose agents on the bottom left hand side of composer. Choose screen saver at the top left. Click on remove. once the agent has been removed, Click on add. And choose the screensaver agent. You will then need to choose the file storage location on the right. Then go to the media section (bottom right) and click on screen saver. Your pictures should re-appear. If it, try a reboot now. Obviously make sure that the screen saver is turned on on each Touchscreen. Good luck. This worked for me.

Seems like we may be confusing “correct” with “optimal” - ROTFL