Elvis

What mujtaba is saying is that the switch can't directly dim / color change the low voltage LEDs. The low voltage LEDs needs to be controlled by their own power supply/controller, and then C4 controller uses a driver to communicate with the LED controller. The C4 switches would send commands to the C4 controller, which would send commands to the LED controller, which would control the lights.
Some examples of this are Philips Hue (C4 controller -> Philips Hue controller -> Philips Hue LED light strip) and DMX (C4 controller -> DMX controller -> LED light strip.) This allows dimming control and color change control.
But this is only if you need dimming capability or color change capability. If you don't, the easiest solution is to have a Control 4 wall switch (SW120277)  turn the LED power supply on / off. The LED power supply is what converts high voltage to low voltage. This is the solution I'd recommend unless you're set on dimming or color change.

No worries

If you need any more help just let me know

I deal with this stuff day in day out

Thanks
M


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I have these Minka-Aire F521 and love the air flow..  I only have one room that only has the fan so I was able to use the C4 fan switch, but the other rooms, have both fan and light so I had to use a aftermarket module so I could turn the single switch into a stack switch so I can control light and fan with a luton speed control stack switch.  I wish c4 had one, it be perfect for all these type of installs.  

I have this fan and LOVE IT. The only integration I’ve done is have it on a C4 switch. If I were to get a Bond I understand I’d be able to adjust speed and what not but we just set that the way we like it and turn it on and off. It’s silent and moves a TON of air.


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Personally I don’t think you need to spend any more money on network hardware its just a case of getting it all set up properly first. 
Firstly Package have a deal with control4, basically Package + Control4 is supposed to just work. I would stick with the Pakedge equipment you have and work with that. However Ubiquiti is on the ban list with Control4, but sometimes it does work, but its not recommended, its mainly the switches as they don’t support multicast traffic very well as Control4 relies on this for their stuff to work properly. 
Also an EA1 is supposed to be for a single room use not multi room, well to be honest it really depends on the size of your system.... 
In regards to access points it sounds like you have a lot going on… if you cant get into any of the UniFi access points I would reset them and the cloud key too. By adding in the apple time capsules you’ve just made your wifi situation more crowded so access points are fighting for space in the same channel spectrum and there is likely a lot of overlap between access points. 
Your packaged router should be more than sufficient for your needs. 
The HC 1000 is discontinued so if you were to go to OS3 you would have to replace it or get rid of it. what is the HC 1000 doing?
There is no lack of support with Hikvison and Control4, sounds more like its not set up properly and your dealer was trying to make more money from by just selling you gear. 
The ring video doorbell does integrate, from what I remember its just for a doorbell notification (doorbell sound from ceiling speakers when the button is pressed) but I will do some digging and see if this has changed. 
In terms of getting in, you have 2 options 
1. Ask your dealer for the passwords, technically they should give them to you as you have paid for the equipment etc 
2. Factory reset everything and I can help you set it all up again. 
What would help is a floor plan of your house, and where each access point is located and any other details you could provide. 
by all means PM me and I can go through and tell you what to do. 
Also what other control4 equipment do you have? Do you have video distribution? Ceiling speakers? Lighting? HVAC? Security? Irrigation? Gate control?
Thanks 
M

I have a room called 'Main Sensors' that I use for all the sensors around the main floor that I want to get a quick status on.  It includes:
Garage Doors (using the garagedoor_relay_control.c4z. driver, so I can see open/closed/partial status) Outside Doors (using the Auto Lock driver, so I can tell lock and door status simultaneously) Link to Cameras Inside sensors that I care about I then favorite that room on touchpanels and my phone, so I can swipe over to it quickly.
https://imgur.com/qtr5tb4
RyanE

Once again Ari has come through for me. After two moves, dismantling my AV rack and associated equipment and switching to a different topography, Ari was able to update my system to OS3 and get everything, including the new equipment, all working in minutes -- despite my incredibly slow Internet connection at the time.
He is fast and efficient, and at a reasonable rate. I continue to highly recommend him.
The good news is that @chopedogg88 is just one of many remote integrators available here on the forum. I've used @AK1, @Matt Lowe and others and they are very talented.
Happy to be back in the game and looking forward to the NEEO waiting on me at the post office. Thanks Ari!
 

I just replaced a modular Rainbird controller with a Rachio3. It has all the features of the pro Rainbird it replaced and many more. The simplicity of setting it up was amazing. We have 10 zones and because of the shape of the house and numerous flowerbeds, zone numbering just could not be more complicated. With the app, you can name the zone anything you want and even take a photo of it. Bottom line: Happy wife and daughter. The worked very hard to update all the flowerbeds and they can easily water whenever they want via their iPhones. My son has one and a new yard and flowerbeds and he says he just "turned it over to Rachio" and it waters perfectly. He's had his running for over a year and his recommendation sold me.
The 3 does give you a few features, like the flowmeter, that the 2 does not. If you use Homekit, the 3 integrates but the 2 does not. Apparently some towns require leak detectors, so if yours does, you'll need the 3.
I have no reason to integrate it in C4 that I can see because we would use Siri or the app if we needed to quickly stop it from running.

Once again Ari has come through for me. After two moves, dismantling my AV rack and associated equipment and switching to a different topography, Ari was able to update my system to OS3 and get everything, including the new equipment, all working in minutes -- despite my incredibly slow Internet connection at the time.
He is fast and efficient, and at a reasonable rate. I continue to highly recommend him.
The good news is that @chopedogg88 is just one of many remote integrators available here on the forum. I've used @AK1, @Matt Lowe and others and they are very talented.
Happy to be back in the game and looking forward to the NEEO waiting on me at the post office. Thanks Ari!
 

Caseta is very easy to integrate into C4, as long as you have a Lutron Smart Bridge PRO in the mix.  We have Pico remotes all over the house to do things where we don’t have cables, and we have some Caseta light switches too.  You can trigger anything you want within your C4 system from either the Pico or the Caseta switch.  Simple code.  You can also add the Caseta loads to Advanced Lighting Scenes just like a normal C4 load.

I have older C4 dimmers and six buttons both inside and outside of my unheated pool cabana.  They have stood up to the humidity and also -25C temps in the winter.

These are my favorite threads. 

You should! If you end up not liking it, they seem to bring great resale value used. It’s quite a different experience than the other remotes, so I’d encourage you to spend some time with it before coming to judgement. Leverage the remote focused buttons and favorites.


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Serena is the retail version of Triathlon shades - less fabric selections and less advanced options but uses the same great motors.
Triathlon - more fabrics better options - WIDR widths.
Sivoia - Wired power, drapery, horizontal sheer, blind and Roman shade control. Multiple motors to choose from, longer wire runs, ability to do both wired power and control, many more advanced options.

correct, if zigbee server is down.

Actually they recommended a cheaper option since it was in conduit, with the Armoured variety as an upgrade "just in case" water was an issue. Water is always an issue on a boat house so I'll spend a few bucks more for that.

Run Cat-6 to the boathouse, and put a Unifi Outdoor AP at the boathouse, and one at the cottage as well.  I have one of these devices on my pool cabana.  The range is supposed to be up to 600ft outdoors.  It functions fine in temperatures lower than you get in Texas.  You can run multiple drops or just put an 8 port switch in your boathouse for more than one device.  

No rg6 needed for dish remote joeys  
You put hooper in the main house and Joey in the remote location attached to the Secondary switch. 

I ran 280 feet of cat 6 from my main switch to another switch in my rv using underground conduit. If you have dish you don’t need anything else except the single cat6 cable. Dish Joey just connects to your secondary switch. (It’s what I did also ) Absolutely no problems at all. I setup another wap inside the rv as well. Try to keep your cable run under 300 feet between your switches
 

Sonos maybe. Control4? I don't see it. Eight stereo zones would take 16 of those things. 16 Alexas to annoy you.

Time to upgrade. Tore down to the rails and built it back up. Got all the equipment in where I think I am happy with the setup.
Some of the upgrades include
Oppo blu-ray > Sony X800p 4k player
Denon x4000 > X8500 added 4 tower speakers to the surround sound as well no have a 5.4.4 Atmos configuration
Re-2 and NK1 > Rk1
Sansus 12 volt PDU and Thermostat Fan Control System
Roku 4 and Shield TV, one connect Centralized to the rack now have True 4k 4:4:4 30p distribution to my Qled 9 75inch and 65 OLEDe8p
Two 41u Lacing Strips to either side of the rack for wire management
Don't mind the mess of wiring in the corner that's next tackle
 

I'm still around.  Things have been really hectic in my day job and something happened to this forum's "facebook login" option which disabled my ability to login to the forums from my phone for a while.  I actually just got back from Amsterdam on a business trip, and will be headed to Budapest in a few weeks.  Fun times.
I'm still developing the driver when it needs it, but all in all things have been very stable.  I posted an update to the homebridge plugin a week or two ago to fix some issues with thermostat support.  Things are still moving along, just slower than I'd like because business is so good in the "real world".  I love this product and it powers my whole home, so don't be worried about it going away.  

I went with Vera Plus and it has been rock solid (knock on wood). @chopedogg88 was able to set it up remotely. 

I can vouch for that. Ari is awesome to work with. Very reasonable rates and his expertise (speed of getting it done) makes him a bargain.

I have been doing a lot of remote programming for people on this forum and otherwise for the past 5 years or so...without having officially posted about it.  Well, here it is!
I am an experienced, certified Control4 technician, with over 20 years of software development experience to back it up.  My company, Epic Systems, also develops and sells drivers for Control4 (most notably, the Amazon Echo driver - www.epic-systems.com)
I have installed and programmed hundreds of Control4 systems over the years, always making sure that my customers are happy (I'm sure several of the folks on this forum can chime in and verify).  I am extremely responsive (usually within minutes or hours), and get things done quickly and done right.
I have experience integrating Control4 with just about every system out there, including (but not limited to):
-Voice Control (Amazon Echo, Google Home)
-Music Services (Sonos, Autonomic, Fusion Research, HEOS, etc)
-Networking (Pakedge, Luxul, Ubiquiti)
-Cameras (Lilin, Wirepath, AMCrest, Panasonic, Nest, etc)
-HVAC (Control4, Nest, Ecobee, Honeywell, Carrier Infinity, etc)
-Shades (Lutron, Somfy, Hunter Douglas, QMotion, etc)
-Security (GE, DSC, Honeywell, etc)
-Lighting (Control4, Lutron, Vantage, Vera, etc)
-Door Locks (Kwikset, Yale, August, etc)
-TVs (Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, VIZIO, etc)
-AVRs (Sony, Denon, Yamaha, Marantz, Onkyo, Integra, etc)
-Contacts/Relays (Card Access, NYCE, Axxis, etc)
-several other 3rd party drivers from DriverCentral.io, HouseLogix, Annex4, DriversLab, etc.
 
Please PM me with the details of what you need done, large or small!
Thanks
Ari Chopra
ari@epic-systems.com
http://www.epic-systems.com
https://www.linkedin.com/in/arichopra