turls

Your welcome. Here's a bit more detail (below) on how it works, if helpful. And happy to answer questions.

 
 

 
 

 
 


 
 

CA10 as main controller
Core5 for Zigbee and audio
Rest depends on what further IO, OSD and music streaming needs you have

My vote:
CA10 & Core5, with Core1 and CA1 for mesh and local GUIs as needed.
If it's just two audio streams and you're doing the CA10 at the same time, and don't need the IO of the 5, you could do the Core3 at the rack instead.
But if the CA10 is later, start with the Core5 to replace the HC800.

“Director” - in the simplest of terms is the program that runs your system, executes the commands given via interfaces and programming, runs the drivers scripts etc.  in other words, your CA-10 is the brain.  Some other tasks are handled by your secondary controllers (EA or Core), like your zigbee mesh, Ryff audio if you are using native audio and OSD (in the case of the Core1,3&5 - 4K) also on the case of the Core3 & 5 relay(s) and contact(s) and  Zwave.  Head to head, the Core controllers are more powerful than their EA counterparts, but that’s simply the new electronics.  
 
Aside from the above differences, there is much more in store for the Core series once further OS versions are released.  
 
All of that said, unless you need to integrate all of the 3rd party zigbee devices and zwave devices (remember that even though Control4 is migrating to zigbee 3.0 and a current zwave protocol, specific device drivers for certain devices may or may not be offered natively -I assume a bunch of 3rd party drivers will come as well to cover devices Control4 doesn’t include natively), there is not a good enough reason to upgrade “today”.  A lot of our Control4 audio clients are interested in the new DACs (allegedly better), but on a typical distributed audio system the sound improvement won’t be that noticeable if at all.  Clients that run a (or an few) audiophile quality zones, may benefit.  
 
Don’t waste the money at this point unless something specific calls you.  Wait until the new Core magic powers are released.  And at some point (I don’t see it anytime soon), the EA’s will no longer be supported.  But for now, we know they are good up to OS3.3.  To be fair, not everyone jumps on new OS releases.  We have very happy clients still running OS2 systems.  

You mean Outdoor Motion Sensors I assume? SnapAV doesn't manufacture a lot of devices (they also don't manufacture Retrofit light bulbs as an example). 
Control4 like the other products we develop for though, does an excellent job of integration, which allows you to embed a range of manufacturers products. It's not a bad practice however, to use something like a Z2IO and standard motion sensor imho though (or if you want something non-snap which is cheaper a Shelly I4 or similar, which can hook up 4 sensors via wifi). 
Another option would be to use AI on security cameras potentially, or other methods (depending on what you're trying to accomplish specifically)
In regards to the CA10, Cyknight is correct. CA10 is always a primary Controller (because its an EXTREMELY fast processor). Your CORE units would be configured as Slave/Secondary units (or IO/Video/Audio outputs/inputs basically). So, the processor in your secondary units doesn't REALLY matter much since the main CA10 does all the work (the drivers and project isn't copied to the slave controllers either) . That being said though, they need to be capable of running the same OS. 
Basically, if we detect performance issues on a CA10 on a customers system. You 100% have a serious driver bug, or a bad network. On a Core Series, unless you have a VERY large install maybe similar. On an EA1/CA1 running as Primary, I have come across some larger systems which perform better on faster processors depending on whats running

To be clear: you're not going to see any increases by replacing ea series with Core series when they're running under a CA10. Any major increases would be only truly noticeable when the MAIN controller gets replaced. (Apart from the fact that the CA10 is far more capable to begin with)

At that point in time, *all* drivers were written only in C++ (the part on the controller, C# for ComposerPro, but wouldn't affect controller performance).
If you have a lot of drivers these days, many of them are using more CPU due to them being interpreted Lua, which, although it is very efficient, it's not C++, and 3rd-party devices may not have as efficient APIs as Zigbee (may require polling or responding to frequent async messages, etc.).
I personally think what affects CPU needs are: 1) Number of 3rd-party DriverWorks device drivers (written by Control4 or 3rd parties), 2) Number of touchpanels or other UI devices (which also require a lot of data and CPU).
Guidelines are of course not hard and fast, but I think *neighborhood-wise*, the recommendations are not unrealistic, but I think size of controller is even more driven by the number of IOs needed than the CPU of the controller.  Bigger projects need more audio outputs, IR / Serial, and Contact/Relays.  *Really* big projects need both.  I've got a CA10 + 3 EA5s (and several I/O extenders).
RyanE

They need to find someone else. Most good dealers enjoy taking on existing systems. As long as its a good experience it will always lead to additional business later on. 

When I was an installer, the company I worked for happily took on most customers who contacted us. Most installers will imho, but they'll simply charge per hour
When existing customers get rejected, it could be for a few reasons though. But often:
Really ancient Control4 equipment the customer won't upgrade (like equipment released in 2008. Generally this is a purchased house, but sometimes installers are reluctant to touch it because of the support. A DIY Network / bad network setup (unmanaged switches, crappy mesh network, ethernet over power, buggy "wifi 7" routers residental grade routers, etc). This is FAIRLY common actually, even in multi-million dollar houses which have been set up by the family. Sometimes it can be hard to convince people their overpriced junk sucks..  They are clearly shopping around for the cheapest quote, or for a quote to take elsewhere. There's been times we got quote requests for the same customer from different locations.. They are purchasing lots of ebay equipment they want installed, which could potentially be embernet, is heavily outdated, hasn't been deregistered properly, or is faulty. Again, most installers would go, but charge per hour, and not warrant it, or offer free support. The installer is fairly busy  

Ok, well if my recollection is correct, switching a controller with them was a nightmare.  And that was when they were still alive.

Never had any Houselogix drivers did you?

You really don't want to boost bluetooth signals (or RF signals) for something liek a game controller - "poor" will be the best you'll get out of it from a gaming perspective.
 
For x-box, I've hear of SOME success in getting a (powered) USB extender and using the adapter for PC (the official microsoft xbox controller to pc adapter/dongle should automatically be recognized by an xbox) to get the controllers to work in a distant room, and you may be able to get one in a central location and make it work that way.
 
 

for those that run blue iris. running an AI on the camera motions have just straight up fixed false notifications for me. its been awesome.

Figured I'd share a simple hack I did tonight that came out well (I think):
Use Case: Our front door DS2 has occasional false positives for our motion annoucement (which we love), so I wanted to add a second sensor to QA that via confirmation logic Solution: Dissasembled a NYCE 3041 and integrated it into a 1" PVC pipe/cap, sealed it at the bottom and sensor for the outdoor environment, painted and cut it to be a landscape 'stake' Given these sensors are known to be durable outdoors pre-mod., thinking it will hold up. Also upped to a CR123 for 2x battery life (despite easy cap removal to change).

As a mobile dev that works for Snap One (Control4) one of the duties we perform is to look on the forums for issues being reported on the mobile platform. If you would like your issue to be noticed you can help out by creating your title in a manner that helps us identify the post as one that's in need of some help/troubleshooting for the mobile apps. The posts that catch our eye are ones that are in the Troubleshooting and bugs discussion board. I propose you start your title first with the platform you're having an issue with then the feature or component that doesn't seem to be working correctly. 
Example Titles
iOS: Intercom not working on ..... iOS: Camera does not stream when (remote/local) etc Android: Now Playing doesn't..... Another thing we will always ask you when trying to support you is what is your director version and app version. It's helpful if you can already include that in the description of your post along with the steps you follow to cause the issue. Once we see your post we'll reach out to let you know we are creating a ticket and ask you to PM your email so we can work with you directly on the issue. We would also most likely ask for your application logs at this point in the direct communcation.
So recap
Post in Troubleshooting/Bugs Include Platform(iOS/Android/etc) in the title along with feature or component that is the issue Include app and director version in the body as well as the steps your following to produce the issue

If anyone is interested I am presently working on finishing a driver for those with Bullfrog Hot tubs or other tubs using gecko controls.  Your tub would need to have the cloud control module known as InTouch2 to be compatible.
 
More info on the module is available here:
 
https://geckointouch.com
 
https://www.bullfrogspas.com/cloudcontrol-2/ 

Mine did something similar after a few years of being in direct sunlight.  They replaced it under warranty…

We've seen this happen - but all were replaced under warranty (we still prefer 'hard buttons regardless - in winter t screens just don't work well here, literally too cold to register).
 
That said I've applied a liquid screen protector to them with good success (plenty of options, I've always used crystal tech - I'm sure others work but why change when it works) part number CTNANOTECH1
I use that on cracked screens (c4 as well) as well.

give yale a call about the screen, i had a client that had thier lock for 5 years and they replaced the screen

I've never heard of the need of protective coatings on the touchpanel keypads.
RyanE

I have also had a number of bad experiences with my Yale lock and it has been replaced several times for one issue of another in the past. However, mine looks in pretty good shape cosmetically. I have the one you push buttons and it gets Texas sun beating hard on it in the afternoons (west facing as well).  I think I have had mine for at least 10 yrs. 
The latest issue with mine is that the deadbolt does not fully extend. Yale suggested for me to either change the deadbolt or replace the unit as motor may be going bad.  I suspect it is the motor. In fact, I am currently trying to determine if Control 4 has discontinued these locks or not, or what options are now available.
It took me a long time to get thru Customer Service so in case you want to try that be prepared to wait a while!
 
 

They had a bad batch of plastics for the keypad a number of years ago.  I have a couple that went that way fairly quickly.
I'd ask Yale if they had some kind of special deal on replacing them, since they were a manufacturing issue, imho.  Worst they could say is 'no'.
I had pretty good success using a headlight polishing kit on the keypad of one of mine, still worked fine.
RyanE

No replacement  for the CA10?

Edit the ring group to remove them from the ring notify. 

It's added in the new versions already... also there is a custom trigger added in in case we missed a battery decice