turls

Same here...this has been happening to me for a long long time.  It happened on OS2 and OS3.  I hope it gets fixed for good soon.

Update: Control4 did an RMA and both new touchscreens are flawless and have never locked up.  Bizarre.  I would have suspected defective equipment from the start except both units had the same issues and if I had seen anyone with similar problems on here.

Useful if everyone uses a code to enter/exit each time.  Not so much otherwise.

IFTTT used to work, requires a lot of programming and also relies on cloud solutions with many variables in between.
Certainly not a solid solution.  Something that is local to your network would be the most reliable.  Some capable routers can do this for you (ie: MikroTik). 

Update pushed out with the changes. Direct download here: https://control4drivers.s3.amazonaws.com/2.9.206/oppo_udp203_bluray_annex4.c4z

@turls '6' seems to be working, no error. I'll create a new HDMI connection for you and add it as a command as well.

I was setting up a few new shortcuts in the Apple Shortcuts app, and I found (and verified) that in this app I can create a button to launch a specific app on AppleTV. Anyone up for a little reverse engineering and getting us a Mini App driver for ATV?

So I have two Control4 systems on my iPhone (mine and my parents). I use the homebridge driver on both of them, and the iOS Home app automatically picks which home to display based on my location when I launch the app. I find it really useful and since I know there are some Control4 iOS devs on here, wanted to pass on a feature request: Have the mobile app use the phone/device’s location to automatically pick the right project to load up.
 
 
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

think its a limitation of the zigbee sleepy devices. not to mention control4 will be putting all their effort going forward into new features for the neeo.

+1 for SR250/SR260.  Why not?

Lot's of questions and lots of lack of information on how to make things better.
Good news with both Alexa and Google with the NATIVE control4 integration - no 3rd party drivers, you can now talk to the dot/mini/whatever and say turn the lights on/off and it will know the room you are in and turn the lights on/off!  Awesome right?  I know this post is going to lead to more questions but I'm tired of all the random questions.
Alexa
In order to make this work in Alexa you have to setup Groups.  (Think of groups like rooms).
Each Group has a prefered Alexa device (which can be any generation echo or spot) - ONLY ONE
Here are instructions on how to setup Groups - https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201749250
The key to a group is a few things:
1) Pick the right Alexa device - you can only pick one
2) Pick everything you want that Alexa device to control and add it to the group
3) KEY STEP - DON'T SKIP - Control4 devices come in as "switches" not lights, you have to change that for every lighting load.  You have to go to all devices, the find the device, click gears and change the type to Light from switch and save.  You must do this for every load.
Bonus Feature: You can also call a group by a name, so if you are in the living room you can tell it to turn the master bedroom lights on/off
 
Google
WIth Google you do much the same.  You setup rooms in the google Home app, add all your devices including more then 1 Google Mini/Nest Mini/Google Home/Nest home to a room.  THen when you are in that room - Googl turn the lights on off.
 
Is this helpful? Should I explain it more step by step?
 
I am available for consultations.
 

All these lights light up areas that Lead from an isolated area potentially. My recommendations are the following:
- Set a delayed dimmed shutoff 1 - 3 mins based on Time for all Lights. Ex). This gives the family time to get to a safe location before the lights go completely off.
- Have a standard color scheme for Lighting Positions: (Off - Red (Translucent at Night), On - Green, Music - Blue....) This would make it easy for the family to recognize a setting or configuration for a room.
- Pay for custom engraved keypad buttons. Cheap and it make it easy for understand all the button options.
- For rooms with day lighting, have programming to control the light level during specific time of the day. As part of this, I have double-tap options to set the light to 100% for a period of time (Motion-based or Time-Based 15 - 30 mins).
-  

i'll take a stab here as i just went through a bedroom remodel and its a similar configuration
 
master bedroom - main door 
Overhead Lights
Blinds
Fan
Room Off (this is a 3 space button and is consistent with other room offs in the house)
 
Night Tables (we each have one as well)
Night Table Light (respective)
Blinds
Fan
Room Off
 
Kitchen (we have a touchscreen here too, but the switch has)
Kitchen Overhead Lights
Garage Light
Garage Door 1
Garage Door 2
 
Living Room - also touchscreen here but we use this switch alot
Overhead Light
Fan
Mute
Room Off
 
Office 
Light
Blinds
Fan
Room Off
 
my advice is as follows
- Try to keep things consistent, if room off is in different spots between rooms it would be a pain.
- Buttons can always be changed but its a lot of work, programming is a lot easier to change.
- we do use the lights for feedback in some areas.  examples are if a garage door is open, that button is red, so its easy to see if we left something open (i'm notorious for this, so we also get emails and texts if its open for more than 15 minutes).
- in some areas, we use double taps,  if you double tap the room off on my night table stand it triggers the good night routine.  shutting things off, turning fan on etc.  if you double tap the light on my night table it starts my personal wake up routine.
- the window treatment stuff has a little programming behind it.  it cycles between 20% open, 50% open and closed.  anything outside of that, and i need to use the actual slider on a touchpad/remote.
 
hope this helps, 

We typically set up the same keypad configuration on both sides of the bed in each room for our clients. It will have five single height buttons followed by the down/up keys. Its entire list of functions is complicated to explain but intuitive to use once they start using it. Here's what it looks like:
 
1. Lights: Turns on the middle one from among five lighting scenes we set up (if none of the five is currently turned on). The five scenes correspond to five stages of overall brightness in the room. Double tapping this button turns on a different scene (outside of those five) and pressing and holding that button for a second enables night mode (lights off, essentially).
 
2. Fan: Turns on the ceiling fan on a single tap and turns it off if you press and hold. A double press action is usually configured to toggle the window shades.
 
3. AC: Turns on the thermostat, with a long press to turn it off. The indicator LED uses a colour code to indicate the current temperature range, and a double tap will set it to default settings.
 
4. Playlists: Pressing and holding this button while a Spotify playlist is playing will favourite it to this button, and tapping it once will play that playlist. Double tapping it will cycle through the playlists preset (configured using the Room Control driver).
 
5. Play/Pause: Single tap to turn on the room and play music using the following order: (1) through the Chromecast if something is being cast to it, (2) join another preconfigured room if something is playing in it, or (3) cycle through the Room Control preset. If something is already playing, it will toggle between Pause and Play. Double tapping this button will skip the track and triple clicking it will skip backwards to the previous track. Pressing and holding it will turn the room off, and pressing and holding it along with the Playlists button will turn the whole house off (if the user wants it).
 
6. Down/Up: They will always control the level of the last used button, including the lights, fan and thermostat. If you pressed the Lights button last and they're currently at level 5, the down button will bring it down to 4 on a single tap; if the thermostat is set to 24°C, it will bring it down to 23, etc..
 
I hope I've been able to explain it properly. It requires a fairly complex programming setup but it works.
 
Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

? How high up is that sensor installed? That looks like it'll require several inches of water before going off...
Unless you're more looking for high humidity (ie causing a film on the sensor which then causes the 'short' that triggers it)?
 
At any rate - the C4/Card Access piece isn't picky at all, it's quite basic - there's a closed loop or there isn't. The only one you need to watch are 'powered' or lighted devices (most basic example a lighted doorbell) what have a trickle coming through at all times as this can cause false readings.

Problem is that water probe as a term tends to be used for multiple things.
 
But to make sure - you do NOT mean a FLOW sensor that gets installed on a pipe, but a sensor that is mounted at floor level?
 
In that case, ANY sensor will basically do, they're just two contacts that that 'short' when water is between them. Heck you could technically put two wire leads on the floor and create one - you just use a 'sensor' because it's nice and easy to install in a way that doesn't get easily messed up (ie the cat moves the wires).
Any local security supplier will have contacts lying around, and I'm sure Amazon could have one delivered by tomorrow for under $20.
 
Here's one from Amazon Canada as an example of what you're looking for:
 
https://www.amazon.ca/Level-Sense-2600-Sensor-Detection/dp/B015P9M7KQ/ref=sr_1_33?gclid=CjwKCAiAmNbwBRBOEiwAqcwwpfFlIh0pZKqjZU5uL35SMWD-X_T8MjGKZ_5q5xq6pgx4siXIZHbqcRoCLooQAvD_BwE&hvadid=208384043485&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9061281&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15187548073298260248&hvtargid=kwd-297218884289&hydadcr=23343_9622023&keywords=water+sensor&qid=1578541839&sr=8-33

https://www.cepro.com/events/ces/mark-of-excellence-awards-ces-2020/

You can do this in HE 
We have a custom Button that we can press when we go on vacation
Simple - Holiday Mode on or off  
However we trigger everything now by our Alarm - When Alarm is armed  start playback from mocupancy when off start recording 

I was comparing straight HDMI cable vs. video distribution systems (HD Base T, VoIP, etc.) that compress/process/decompress the signal  and add additional latency.
 
Many newer displays have low-latency game mode (and variable refresh rates) to improve gaming performance. Video distribution would negate those benefits whereas straight HDMI would not. 

I wanted to document for the community a work around for sensor failures from the Dam-it system by C&S Electronics.
I made a substantial investment in the Dam-It system for my C4 System with 12 leak sensors and the water valve.  Within two years, I have had 4 sensors fail.  I can certainly buy replacement from C&S but I found the quality to be poor given the failure rate and didn't feel like dropping $420 more on their junk.
Subsequently I looked into the Leaksmart system but there are issues with the sensors dropping off the hub and the driver for C4 registers a negative 1 sensor (Haven't figured that one out.)  This was with version 3.0 of the Leaksmart hub.
I have had CardAccess components and found them to be high quality.  So.....
I purchased CardAccess WCS10A wireless relay and attached GRI 2800 Leak Sensor to it.  I super glued the GRI 2800 to the WCS10A, trimmed the wire and attached to relay 1.  The unit was bridged to a generic water sensor in control4. Bingo!
The WCS10A is about $50 on ebay new and less used.  The GRI 2800 is about $15.
Hope this helps someone!

I've had my system for over 8 years and haven't done anything yet because I don't want to commit.  I need to decide...

You can also use our free skill (& driver) for more intuitive Alexa control
 

Do you like the idea of voice control, but find that you and your family members can never remember the proper commands to get Alexa to do what you want?

Or maybe you just don't want to have to pay for the 4sight license to have Alexa support?

Either way, the new SimpleC4 Alexa skill from Video Storm might make you love your Alexas again.

With SimpleC4, your commands are simple:
"Alexa, set Watch to Cable"
"Alexa, set Listen to Pandora"
"Alexa, turn off tv" 
"Alexa, turn on lights"

Your AV gear (in the room you are in) is always refered to as "TV", your lights as "Lights".  The "Watch" and "Listen" commands are just like on your C4 remote.  Super easy to remember.
More details at https://splash-tiles.com/help/alexa_c4.php

Best of all, everything above is completely FREE.  Seriously.  You don't even need a 4sight subscription.  We do have paid options if you love the service and intend to use it extensively (we certainly appreciate the support).

To get started, create a new account at https://splash-tiles.com and then install our NetPlay Cloud driver (http://www.video-storm.com/downloads/npcloud.c4z).
Service tiers (if just using SimpleC4, there are no control pages so no banner ads):
Free:  completely FREE.   Control pages have banner ads and you need to login to verify you are human once a month
Verified:  $79 one time fee.  Control pages have banner ads, but no periodic verification required.
Pro: $75 / year.  No ads, no verification.
 

So if ANPR wasn't enough for you maybe our new face recognition driver will wow you!
This driver makes use of Microsoft's Face API and allows you to, via a web interface, add the name of people and add faces to those names. The driver will then work similarly to our ANPR driver and once a programming action is triggered (in C4 programming) we will capture the image from any URL or IP Camera (supporting Basic & Digest authentication) and then try and identify a person in it.
If a face is identified then either the Known Face Detected event will be fired which will allow you to make use of the Person Name and Confidence Level (0-100) variables to program based on who was detected. If the face identified is unknown the Unknown Face Detected event will be fired and allow you to program based of that scenario.
The driver also includes the ability use an image in the push notification. The image available will be the image when there was last an identified face. This lets you, for example, have a push notification sent to you with the image taken when there is an unknown person detected.
Images





The Microsoft Face API provides 30,000 free requests per month. Each identification takes between 1 and 3 requests. Requests are also used when adding people and their faces. Generally, the 30,000 is enough for most installs if the trigger for detecting faces is reasonable – i.e. whenever motion is detected may not be reasonable, but when a line is crossed (Hikvision cameras or active beam sensor) would be a better use of the limit.
The driver is available on BlackWire Designs here: https://www.blackwiredesigns.com/store/control4-face-recognition/
 

That is weird... My T3s have been rocksolid for years (first with an HC800 then an EA5 and now a CA10). If both are an issue, I agree with MS, it sounds like something other than he touchscreen (network or controller)...