Neo1738

personally, I don't care if you call it OS3, OS 3.5, OS4...what really matters is what functionality are you gaining

Thanks for the thoughts. I only have 2 connections (the 2 analogue ones) from each EA5.  I do think that you are right and one of the EA5s is trying to keep open a phantom stream.  I have narrowed the problem down to one of the EA5s and I am fortunate to have another EA5 that is acting as a glorified IO extender elsewhere in the house (long story but I swapped an EA5 in my other house for a Core 5 and that freed this one up so it ended up in this system but being under-utilised) so I have asked my dealer to come past and swap the EA5 that I think is causing the problem with the one elsewhere that has no media responsibilities.  I am hoping that this will fix things and it will be an easy fix.  The downside is that I then won’t have a “spare” EA5 in the system… Fortunately, neither of these units do Zigbee so I think it as simple as a physical swap and re-identifying the 2 units.

Not sure anyone else noticed but my apple watch ultra 2 is so much faster, more stable, and there is now session/transport controls with volume!
 

I have just received my little 5.5" Axion touchscreen, which on first inspection looks to be well constructed.
First job was to hook it up to a Poe network cable for Power and Network.
Then added the C4 OS3 APP and all looks good so far, the screen Autorotates depends on physical orientation Landscape/Portrait etc. so thats good and the Intercom seems to work fine.
So so far all good.
 

 
 

The highest a screen should be is this: measure 1/3 up the screen from the bottom - that imaginary horizontal line should be at or below seated eye level. This results in the bottom of the screen being pretty close to the floor.
If you’re ever going to watch TV shows, and probably even if you are not, you should go with a screen aspect ratio to match the projector aspect ratio. So unless you’re using an amorphic lens on the projector, you should use a 16:9 screen. Otherwise, you’re losing 1/3 the pixels and 1/3 the brightness and will have light spillover above/below the screen. 
 
For the price, you cannot beat a Silver Ticket screen from Amazon. Their woven acoustically transparent screen is a great performer, as proven in testing. If you want integrated boarder lighting or light rejection do SI; for absolutely reference color reproduction do Stewart StudioTek 130. 

Booo sorry man

This plus you will become tempted to make your project bigger and better and at some stage things slow down again and you want even more power (I am, sadly, at that stage). Maybe T5s and a CA11 would make me really happy in 2024 😂

Y the CA10 is speedy! Instant response. 

It’s only been a week, but so far I have to say that I now regret not upgrading to the CA-10 and Core5 when they first came out. Touchscreens, iPhone and iPad apps, cameras, commands are all almost instant. Being a long time user, I think the move from the HC1000 to the HC800 to the EA5 blinded my expectations because each move was a noticeable improvement. But now I’m getting instant reactions. Love it!

Happy Christmas everyone.
To all those who celebrate Christmas, I trust that this Christmas will be a meaningful one for you and your families as we remember the reason for the celebration,  God bless.
Thanks to everyone on this forum for your input and online friendship over this last year as we have shared the passion of home automation and, particularly, everything that Control4 can do.
May 2024 be a great year for you all.

From the documentation of Control4's Roku driver:
Version 147:
* Fixed Bug (DRIV-9063) Updated Transport Controls to support Play/Pause on RokuTV. Added Channel up/down for Live TV app support.
RyanE
 

The traditional Roku remote doesn't contain a channel up and down button.  Its cool that Youtube TV and some other apps support it.  You can fix this on your own by repackaging the Roku driver.  Inside the C4Z (unzip) you will find an XML file.  In that XML file will be a section that determines which buttons to show.  You can modify this to show the buttons you want.  Control4 tried to match the buttons that a traditional Roku remote shows.  @RyanE

Every once in a while I’ll get the same message, but using Xfinity.  Restart remote and it comes right back.
I don’t use Apple so can’t help there really.  But at least you have a voice option for it, when it works.
Still waiting on Roku support, if Roku gets their heads out of their…

I dont think anyone on here would recommend using Alexa as an audio source.
That is not a conspiracy it is the truth; goes for all apps really. Everyone wants their UI to be what people interact with. Spotify doesnt like people using Sonos to control their music. Sonos doesnt love (they accept it) people using Control4 to control their product. Only company that seems to not care is Lutron.

You are going to enjoy the CA10. It is a big step up.

Just ordered the CA-10 and a Core5. Hope to see improved user experience regarding speed and 4k. Will keep the EA-5 and EA-3 for guest room OSD’s and Zigbee.

Also, I might just be an extra bourbon in for the evening but is this new(ish)? I don't remember shuttle controls in sessions... We usually had to plop into a room to skip, thumbs down, pause etc. this is great!
 

Agreed, should be an option.  They should provide canned stock photos for different room types/names like Savant and others do, so if you don't have a picture of the actual room handy you can at least quickly select from a set of stock photos that make your house look way cooler than it actually is!

Nevermind, I just found the "Auto Setup Outlet Light Devices" under actions. 
Chowmain is amazing......

I have composer HE and it is very good. I have programmed in the past which helps. It isn’t intuitive but once you get the hang of it it is quite handy. 

Ditto.  I use the beta driver to control three groups of shades so far (many, many left to do).  Pretty flawless once you dial it in.  Because I am lazy, I do wish that the driver itself incorporated more "logic" around controlling shades and not just sun position.  That said, the core "where is the sun right now?" function is awesome, and the programming is pretty straight forward.  After some tips from the developer, I got an iPhone app that makes it easy to "survey" your windows (in terms of where, in terms of azimuth and altitude, the sun enters and exits the positions when it will be annoyingly shining directly through window) and then do the programing around these events.   Makes shade automation "set and forget" instead of my prior delta-from-sunrise/sunset approach that required seasonal tweaking.

I also pull weather forecast and solar radiation / brightness from the Tempest weather station driver and use as conditionals so shades don't close when it's cloudy or cold.  Works like a charm.

I've been giving this a test and it works amazingly. No more setting the shades to raise and lower based on timers in the morning and hoping it gets it right and having 2 sets of timers for summer and winter (sun rises slower in summer) etc. Now everything is based on azimuth of the sun (position east to west) and shades go up and down based on that. Love it!

I've been giving this a test and it works amazingly. No more setting the shades to raise and lower based on timers in the morning and hoping it gets it right and having 2 sets of timers for summer and winter (sun rises slower in summer) etc. Now everything is based on azimuth of the sun (position east to west) and shades go up and down based on that. Love it!

the dumpster fire isn't the software...its the person using it...

Thanks have an IRUSB for a FireTV stick. I have a Raspberry Pi4 running my posters. Thanks for suggestions.