Double D

Once you have the c4 module in, power up the lock and then use the keypad, enter your master code then *, then 7* and 1*

There is also a driver called Universal Adaptor that you can use to connect Digital input from the Core and Analog output to the Response amp. 

You can unpair on the Samsung TV by going to NETWORK, ADVANCED and DISABLE IP CONTROL. Then ENABLE IP CONTROL. Then pair again. 

Uhm. I sincerely doubt the whole "do it all with voice" would last long. THAT is limiting.
That said, as you mentioned alexa can be integrated with C4 to do pretty much anything - but as with ANY voice setup, the more you do, the more you need to remember what to say and how to say it. If you find tidal hard to use in C4, well either something is really amiss with your setup in some weird way, or, and yes I AM being an ass, complex voice control isn't for you either.
The fact that it's not workign right is merely a matter of setup and programming. Sounds like the C4 dealer you're working with is in over it's head.
Roku is about as solid as it gets integration wise, but not knowing the setup it's impossible to say what other components may be involved, and thus not working.
Lighting isn't limited to C4 and lutron: those are probably the most rock-solid solutions out there however. Any zwave lighting pretty much works as well. Not to mention numerous other options. Look at drivercentral.io for a pretty expansive overview of other options.
 
You should knwo that C4 is a dealer installed and maintained system. While there are options for you to tinker yourself, 'quickly adding new smart features' (yourself) isn't what C4 does.
 

You guys rock.  I did the firmware update when I first installed, but it must not have uploaded.  I just updated and now working perfectly, thx!

Control4 Vibrant lighting will do exactly what you need with fully integrated controls. DM me if you’d like me to help you get a design/quote. 

Wanted to provide a quick note for folks about something I just noticed in programming with the Assure 2 lock. Still stand by everything I've said earlier about these locks - they're fantastic. 
That being said, I just noticed this "quirk" - not all device variables are populating so it is worth testing your programming off the variable if you're doing that too.  For instance, I have programming that sends me a report about device battery status when a device reports a low battery or a battery level drops too low.  In programming this, I discovered that the Assure 2 lock makes available several variables (Battery Status; Battery Level; Last Action Description; Lock Status; Last Unlocked By; and Long Pressed) but doesn't populate them all (only Battery Level and Last Unlocked By).  So if you're programming and want to include a variable (like Battery Status or Battery Level) be aware that the former won't work but the later will.

I'll answer as a dealer:
Great - getting this in is often underrated.
What type of build is it? All cement/brick then you may well need an AP per floor. If wood studding, I'd start with two noting that if signal is insufficient you may need to add more.
You can tell him, but understand that he'll likely not support your network if he's not giving the option himself - and that COULD open a can of worms. He may even refuse to do the system outright.
We don't support user setup networks either (though we'll work with an existing setup): I get that you say you're no dummy, but from a company perspective, it's impossible to support something that you don't have control over WHEN IT IS THAT IMPORTANT to the overall function of the system. And networking is soooooooooooo often the cause of issues in a system. So while I don't AGREE with not doing a system unless doing the network as well - that does come with some caveats (most basic being that any service calls that result from networking will not be covered by any warranty or service agreement)
Cisco doesn't sell switches for 77. More like 150. Linksys does. Don't use consumer grade networking gear. Not sure what switch he's quoting, but if it's an araknis 2xx series (which i assume based on the price), it's not quite an unmanaged switch. It'll have numerous management/monitoring options. Not saying it has to cost that, but again, a bit more info on what it is would help. Also, don't use consumer networking gear - just don't.
 
Mid Atlantic likely. Again, hard to say if it's a strange price not knowing what is quoted. But yeah MidA 's racks are fantastic but way to costly UNLESS there's a reason to use them (quake rating for example in commercial setups). Course I don't know if it includes all shelves, wiring guides, added cooling, and all the time needed to install everything.....)
OK. So GREAT speakers, but if it's just speakers....well they're just that - they don't 'work well' at all, they just work. If it's top notch sound you want, they're a good option. If it's their outdoor gear, or 70v gear, then OK, it does work well. So does Episode by Snap for a fraction of the price. I'm calling full BS on that motivation.
Welp. It's YOUR home is it not? You are allowed to push back on everything you want to. It's your house, will be your system. Where the dealer will go with that though I couldn't say.
 
From a dealer perspective:
We spec networking to size, and for a reason. We either do it the right way there, or we don't do it. 'Course we also don't overspec the amount of gear....and yes we are not unwilling to have you do your own APs as long as we approve them beforehand: we'll except any decent Wifi that we know do not cause major issues, and no mesh networking (don't expect us to accept EEro mesh setups, ubiquiti? Sure). The pure system networking will be ours to setup (note that of course it's going to be case by case to some degree: commercial setups, existing setups or people that have their company IT contractors....we'll work with)
Controllers: you accept what we offer in most scenarios. If we feel there's wiggle room, we'll have quoted multiple options and explained them. We'll also explain in however much detail why we quote what we did as requested.
Rack: we usually have a much better price than you would ever find, but as long as it's the correct size (in 'U' as well as depth, has rear rack rails for management bars etc etc) and has standard mounting .... don't really care.
A/V: Switching we quote what we know works. Amplification, sources, speakers, we offer multiple options and are willing to discuss if there are client preferences. In most cases, this is no issues to come in yourself to add what you need/want.
 
 
In more general terms:
We provide the core system with the devices we know works, fits the requirements and that -and this is the most important part- we can SUPPORT (and have proper support on the back end). That portion (so basically the core network, C4 controller setup (we don't follow the one controller per TV, which is ridiculous and spec to system size) and any A/V switching we won't budge on equipment as such (we can work with you to make a more basic system of course, dropping some of the luxury/function to drop the bill).
Anything else, we can certainly discuss, and as long as we're comfortable controlling it (ie sources) and we don't feel it's an overall bad idea (crappy amps that will blow up your speakers, wifi we KNOW will cause issues) we can likely accommodate as far as options are concerned.
 
In the end, it's your house, your system. I can't comment on any builder/contractor requirements that may be in place, but once the house is yours, so is the wiring. Nothing stops you from shopping around for other dealers, nothing stops you from pushing back on the current one to get a better budget fitting option.
 
 
Note that I'm talking general terms here: if you feel the quote is too much fora video switch, we can always come up with options, talk about replacing all your TVs with 4K so we don't need scaling video switches, or even grade you down to 1080p for distribution with local 4K sources for major rooms, lower the individual rooms by combining areas etc etc etc - a single quote is never a final quote.
That said, do remember that you get what you pay for: going cheap on everything rarely works out well.
 

That would be a dealer issue, not C4. C4 wouldn’t even know this end user is having an issue.  Zero foul on their part.  The dealer would always handle this type of issue. Sounds like the dealer did his job and took the remotes back for a refund, which is probably the only fair thing to do once the client gets so disgruntled.  
And, yes, C4 will absolutely want them back for testing. 

Just wanted to share - received this press release today via Colorbeam.  Just started getting their products in one room and interested to see what this may develop into as expand into other rooms/zones
 
Colorbeam Native C4 Certified Lighting Driver

Using an indoor listed TV outside is asking for trouble. Any installer who does so is exposing themselves to huge liabilities.

My battery report…
Yesterday I started with the remote on full charge. It was off the charging cradle all day. The remote was used all day (minus about 2 cumulative hours) from 630am until 10pm. Lots of browsing YouTube, some streaming music browsing using the Halo screen, some lighting control. 

The Halo was at about 35% battery when I went to bed. I’m left it off the cradle all night. Today at 630am I was at 31%. Not bad at all. 
 
For reference, my iPhone 13 was also on full charge and was used sporadically all day. I ended up with 10% left by bedtime. I am quite pleased with the Halo battery and overall performance so far. 

It uses standard wifi and just needs os 3.3.2. so, EA, CA or core controllers will all work. You simply need to ensure you're using Control4 OS 3.3.2 or later (if not, you need an installer to perform an upgrade and test. If you're still running os 2.x or RGB lights without a color wheel, I'd even recommend they go onsite and replace your drivers with newer ones
If you're running the latest firmware, most people can actually set up the halo themselves without issue and without installer assistance (unless your WiFi network isn't set up correctly, you have buggy drivers or you have network issues)

My battery report…
Yesterday I started with the remote on full charge. It was off the charging cradle all day. The remote was used all day (minus about 2 cumulative hours) from 630am until 10pm. Lots of browsing YouTube, some streaming music browsing using the Halo screen, some lighting control. 

The Halo was at about 35% battery when I went to bed. I’m left it off the cradle all night. Today at 630am I was at 31%. Not bad at all. 
 
For reference, my iPhone 13 was also on full charge and was used sporadically all day. I ended up with 10% left by bedtime. I am quite pleased with the Halo battery and overall performance so far. 

My battery report…
Yesterday I started with the remote on full charge. It was off the charging cradle all day. The remote was used all day (minus about 2 cumulative hours) from 630am until 10pm. Lots of browsing YouTube, some streaming music browsing using the Halo screen, some lighting control. 

The Halo was at about 35% battery when I went to bed. I’m left it off the cradle all night. Today at 630am I was at 31%. Not bad at all. 
 
For reference, my iPhone 13 was also on full charge and was used sporadically all day. I ended up with 10% left by bedtime. I am quite pleased with the Halo battery and overall performance so far. 

My battery report…
Yesterday I started with the remote on full charge. It was off the charging cradle all day. The remote was used all day (minus about 2 cumulative hours) from 630am until 10pm. Lots of browsing YouTube, some streaming music browsing using the Halo screen, some lighting control. 

The Halo was at about 35% battery when I went to bed. I’m left it off the cradle all night. Today at 630am I was at 31%. Not bad at all. 
 
For reference, my iPhone 13 was also on full charge and was used sporadically all day. I ended up with 10% left by bedtime. I am quite pleased with the Halo battery and overall performance so far. 

I received my Halo on February 10th (thanks @chopedogg88!).  Put it on the charger over night and set-up the next morning.  The self install was very easy.  I set up the Halo on a shared SSID at the home.  I love the look, feel and function of the remote.  Looks like only 1 button difference between the SR-260 and Halo - voice button exchanged for info button.  I think all others are there in some form.  The cool thing was I programmed a custom button to toggle lamps in the room on the SR-260 and that was automatically carried over to the Halo in the install process - I expected I would have to re-add that functionality.  I have not yet implemented the voice function (too old of an ATV and haven't addressed Xfinity setup - I know I have IR based control now).
In the 5 days or so I've been using the new Halo, I haven't seen any wifi drops (actually no need to reset anything at all on the remote).  We built our home 5 years ago and our Control4 dealer spec'd Luxul AP's, wifi controller, switches and router.  I've been very happy with the Luxul gear.  Battery life for the Halo seems to be 1.5 - 2 days.  We set up the charger base in an adjoining room roughly 15 steps away - so getting in the habit of putting the Halo on the charger on our way to bed.
My wife and I both love the look and feel of the Halo - far superior to the SR-260 in our opinion - and more than enough offset for shorter batter life - again in our opinion.  All I really need now is for the screen to last 5+ years!
My next project will be working on Xfinity voice integration and probably upgrading ATV to latest / greatest and get voice there as well.

I want it all, I want it now, I want it for free. And if I didn't do my homework it's not my fault.

Most any additions to C4 need some programming. Adding WiFi remotes to an existing system that is already programmed does not any programming, at least to do the basics. This allows C4 dealers to drop off/ship remotes straight through the job site and just about anyone will be able to add it in. This helps dealers and end users on a product that MANY will likely upgrade to. 
 
This is meant to be an upgrade, not an addition. And there will still be programming in the system needed to do more advanced functions like voice control.
C4 is not a DIY system. It is for clients who aren’t able or don’t want to automate their own system, often providing more advanced features/quality. 

Most any additions to C4 need some programming. Adding WiFi remotes to an existing system that is already programmed does not any programming, at least to do the basics. This allows C4 dealers to drop off/ship remotes straight through the job site and just about anyone will be able to add it in. This helps dealers and end users on a product that MANY will likely upgrade to. 
 
This is meant to be an upgrade, not an addition. And there will still be programming in the system needed to do more advanced functions like voice control.
C4 is not a DIY system. It is for clients who aren’t able or don’t want to automate their own system, often providing more advanced features/quality. 

I spoke with Ray last week and setting up an account was very quick and easy. Ray was very knowledgeable and a pleasure to deal with. The products look well designed and solid with C4. I can’t wait to get my first batch of products to try out!

There is a HUGE issue with AMP 108s.  The early batches have a nearly 100% failure rate eventually.  There is a defective part inside them.  If you have your dealer call C4 about the bad amp, they will give you a new Triad PAMP 8 zone amp for the cost of the repair and return of the AMP108.

This shouldn't be difficult at all.  First off, keep everything in Control4 for the music apps.  Forget Heos.  Keep the Sonos speakers to use as powered IP speakers only, no Sonos apps.  This will allow you to do full programming with Announcements, etc.
 
- LR- use HDMI out from the EA5.  MBR will get en EA1 with HDMI feeding the Denon.  You will need to set On-Screen connections for the EA5 to Zone 1 and EA1 to zone 2.  Your multi zone receiver will confuse C4 audio routing if you do not do it this way.  Setting connections this way will create two completely separate audio zones that can still be joined with any other audio zones.  MBR audio will come from the EA1, through the TV and to the Sonos speakers with full C4 control.
- Second Bedroom- EA1 HDMI out to the TV, TV optical out to the Sonos speakers.
- all other rooms- Triad Audio Matrix and Triad amps with the four audio connections from the EA5.
 
100% of control will come from on-screen Navigators, touchscreens, C4 app with full use of all music apps through these interfaces.  You can also use Configurable Keypads for some really slick and simple controls of music.  All zones will be able to play by themselves, able to group together.  No replacing or doubling of any speakers.  You will actually be able to play 7 different streams at once.

You wouldn't need to change any of the EA1s.  They would just be needed to create a zone of C4 audio stream for each room that has Sonos speakers (Sonos speakers becoming basically just TV speakers for that room).  Any C4 compatible matrix would work as long as it can take all of the EA5 audio outputs that you would want to use (analog and digital).

This shouldn't be difficult at all.  First off, keep everything in Control4 for the music apps.  Forget Heos.  Keep the Sonos speakers to use as powered IP speakers only, no Sonos apps.  This will allow you to do full programming with Announcements, etc.
 
- LR- use HDMI out from the EA5.  MBR will get en EA1 with HDMI feeding the Denon.  You will need to set On-Screen connections for the EA5 to Zone 1 and EA1 to zone 2.  Your multi zone receiver will confuse C4 audio routing if you do not do it this way.  Setting connections this way will create two completely separate audio zones that can still be joined with any other audio zones.  MBR audio will come from the EA1, through the TV and to the Sonos speakers with full C4 control.
- Second Bedroom- EA1 HDMI out to the TV, TV optical out to the Sonos speakers.
- all other rooms- Triad Audio Matrix and Triad amps with the four audio connections from the EA5.
 
100% of control will come from on-screen Navigators, touchscreens, C4 app with full use of all music apps through these interfaces.  You can also use Configurable Keypads for some really slick and simple controls of music.  All zones will be able to play by themselves, able to group together.  No replacing or doubling of any speakers.  You will actually be able to play 7 different streams at once.