zaphod

It isn't nearly as cool as what you are suggesting, but you can buy motion activated sprinklers for less than $50. But using C4 to do this gives you major geek cred in my book!
Blue Iris allows you to trigger http events which you could receive in C4.  With a ring camera and the ring C4 driver you can program against motion.
 
 
By the way, this issue with Canada Goose poop being a problem is an episode of Letterkenny, the best show on TV. NSFW on the account of every other word staring with F. 
You got a problem with Canada Gooses, you got a problem with me.  And I suggest you let that one marinate!
 

There is no EA-2, but there are EA-3s and EA-5s.  The number represents the number of audio outputs but it includes HDMI so the EA-1 doesn't really have an audio output.  The EA-3 has two audio only outputs plus HDMI.  The EA-5 has four audio outputs plus HDMI.  Audio out is used for whole home audio - like Tidal, Amazon Music, Spotify Connect, Shairplay or your own MP3 (or whatever format) audio files.
The EA-3 and EA-5 have better CPUs as well so that they can handle large systems with more devices.  The EA-1 is only recommended for a single room system.  I have well over 120 devices such as C4 dimmers, keypads, plus about 10 TVs, cable boxes, Rokus, several audio matrix amps, blinds, fireplace, door locks, security system, SR260s, SR250s, etc.  For that many devices you will want an EA-3 and maybe multiple controllers to handle lots of Zigbee devices.
The controllers don't act as audio or video switches.  They use other devices, like your AVR, or TV and switch inputs.  They do this by sending IR commands or IP or serial if your TV and AVR has that.
What you suggest should work, but if you ever think you want more you might want to consider an EA-3.

one that was not mentioned. These are a zigbee device which is a mesh network. At some point you just have to many nodes and too many ways for the data to travel back to the hub. Having so many paths can cause the data to jump around and get lost or cause a lot of latency. Depending on how good the mesh is you can have larger sizes too. Control4 will recommend no more than 100 devices to a single mesh but you can do more if needed, but some may experience issues. It's also a good rule of thumb that if a room has a lot of devices in a small space you may want to segregate them to their own mesh for the same reasons as above.

I like toekick lights as well, but mine face straight down.  I have also used the aluminum channels with white covers and the covers diffuse the lights.

And just to explain this a bit more - there are a ton of "generic" light strips that you can buy on Amazon and other places - most of them are 12V.  These will need a power supply and a controller but they should work with pretty much any controller as the controller is just controlling voltage levels for the different colors.  You can get a very simple controller that will just be controlled via an IR remote control, or you can get a wifi controller.  You can get RGB or RGBW - the W standing for white.  When you get a controller make sure that it matches your strips for the RGB or RGBW.
Or you can buy a kit with the strips, controller and power supply such as the ones that you linked to.
Are the one on Amazon "cheap Chinese junk"?  Possibly, but it is possible that all of these light strips are made in the same couple of factories in Shenzhen so the "name" brands may not be any different than any other strips.
I have had a bunch of these cheaper strips for a decade, both inside and outside.  The inside ones have lasted pretty well, but the outside ones have not as they are not as waterproof as I had hoped.  And the silicone covering has turned yellow and bubbled.  You can get the strips uncoated, which are kind of a bare metal and are cheaper, and outdoor ones that are coated in silicone. You can normally cut them to size with scissors and you can get about every six inches.  You can get accessories to join strips together or to have L angles, or whatever.  But when you join strips together they start to fade at the end of the strips so you can generally do no more than two strips with one power supply, and even that may be pushing it.  There are also 24V strips that should suffer from fewer fading issues but they are harder to find.

When indenting code always use tabs, NOT spaces  😃

This is from Bell Canada in Toronto, but I believe that these speeds are also available in other major cities in Ontario and Quebec.
I actually have 500/20 service from Rogers Cable, but they have a gigabit option as well, but their upload speed is capped at around 30.

It certainly does reduce power output (max power up to +14dBm for Channel 25, up to +18dBm for all others), but it's also the only channel that's nearly completely outside of Wifi interference.
We use it at shows, where there are literally hundreds of access points within spitting distance, and it works fine.
It's what I use at home as well, and I've never had an issue with it.
It's very likely most nodes would not be transmitting at full power most of the time anyway.
If you want to avoid Channel 25, 15 and 20 are next best options, as they're mostly out of the 'common' Wifi channels (1, 6, 11).
RyanE
 

Try googling "Cisco cable box ir receiver" or something like that.  I use a glue gun to glue the ir bud onto the plastic lens right by the IR receiver.

You may not need this but there is also something called MCE Controller which allows a PC to be controlled over the network.  This was written by former C4 executive Charlie Kindel:  https://github.com/tig/mcec
There is also a C4 driver for MCE Controller https://github.com/garrynewman/Control4.MceControllerDriver.   This was written by Garry Newman who has (ahem) written other Control4 related software.

You may not need this but there is also something called MCE Controller which allows a PC to be controlled over the network.  This was written by former C4 executive Charlie Kindel:  https://github.com/tig/mcec
There is also a C4 driver for MCE Controller https://github.com/garrynewman/Control4.MceControllerDriver.   This was written by Garry Newman who has (ahem) written other Control4 related software.

Google is your friend, and it isn't like you are going to JAIL if you BREAK into Control4.

I have written a Python script to easily make C4 drivers with customized icons by altering the stock Control4 Scenario Experience driver.  This involves unzipping a C4Z file, changing the icon image files, and making slight alterations to the XML file before rezipping it.  This script automates all of that and outputs a new C4Z driver file that can be added to your project by your dealer via Composer Pro. You just need to provide an image file to start with - ideally a PNG file that is about 1024x1024. (Smaller image files were working but some icons might look stretched.) After the new driver file is added to your sytem you can then use Composer HE to decide what screens to display these in, and Favoriting in Navigator to put these buttons on (almost) any screen that you want and tie them to any task in C4. 
You will need Python 3, but it should work in Windows, Linux and WSL. (If you are running Linux under Windows 10 then you should have Python already installed on that. If you have Windows 10 I would highly recommend installing Ubuntu so that you have a Linux system running inside of Windows 10).
Instructions on how to do all of this are in a Readme file and in comments in the Python file.  In theory the script should work on Macs as well but I don't have a Mac to test.  Download the file from Github:   https://github.com/zaphodb65/C4driverbuilder
The final result will look like this. (This is from the C4 app on an iPad)

I agree that an iPad isn’t ideal, but I don’t think these issues are a big deal. 

Why use a password in this instance?  Apple nags you but you can set it up without a password.  My daughter has a disability and I have no password on her iPad.
And worst case scenario, if you forget the password, couldn’t you just do a factory reset?  If you are only using it for C4 then it isn’t like it is much work to Re-install the C4 app. 

Maybe the feeling, which was expressed in a different thread, that the Neeo is pretty but not functional, and the SR-260 is functional, but looks like it is from the 1990s.

Maybe the feeling, which was expressed in a different thread, that the Neeo is pretty but not functional, and the SR-260 is functional, but looks like it is from the 1990s.

Google is your friend, and it isn't like you are going to JAIL if you BREAK into Control4.

Google is your friend, and it isn't like you are going to JAIL if you BREAK into Control4.

I went with an outdoor Kasa double outlet (transformer is in the garage) and Alan’s free Kasa driver. Works great. Can operate and program through C4 or through the Kasa app itself. Just a cheaper but reliable alternative.

Yes that should work.

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This is fine as well as the hardware makers continue to have open APIs, but you can get burned following this strategy.  We have seen it a few times - Sonos and MyQ are two that come immediately to mind and I am sure that there are others.

I don’t disagree with anything you say in this post!  I also respect C4s stance in this regard and would probably make the same decision if I was running C4 (for exactly the reasons you mention).  I also think that C4 (via HE) gives more access to the DIY community than any of its competitors.
Equally, I fully support the idea of superuser access (Pro and Driver writing access) while knowing it is unlikely to ever become a reality and is thus no more than popcorn fodder for threads like this one.

This is fine as well as the hardware makers continue to have open APIs, but you can get burned following this strategy.  We have seen it a few times - Sonos and MyQ are two that come immediately to mind and I am sure that there are others.

There is certainly some overlap and a lot of DIYers do use Control4, some just using ComposerHE and others who use the Jailbreak.  Hence the popularity of the C4DIY discord channel, where even some of the folks in this thread contribute.

There is certainly some overlap and a lot of DIYers do use Control4, some just using ComposerHE and others who use the Jailbreak.  Hence the popularity of the C4DIY discord channel, where even some of the folks in this thread contribute.