zaphod

I am guessing that he means do people have strategies for numbering within your LAN.
I use 1-10 for networking hardware like router, WAPs, switches. (ie 192.168.1.1 - 192.168.1.10)
My C4 controllers are from 11-19.
My PCs are from 85-99.
My DHCP range is from 100-200.
I use 30-39 for cameras.
Or at least that was the original plan.  As you get too many devices to fit within one range that you set 10 years ago the plan starts falling apart. Entropy starts to set in 😔
I am thinking of going to a /23 subnet but that may f(&% up stuff for a bit as I will undoubtedly forget to change some things that have static settings.  I am starting to run out of room on your typical /24 subnet as I have a bunch of dockers running on unRAID and I like to use unique IPs for them so that I don't have to screw around and change HTTP from port 80 to all sorts of funky ports.

If you are using if for watching TV and you are using the remote fairly often then you will want the SR-260. If you just use it to start Netflix shows or other stuff then you may be fine with a phone or tablet. Most of my TV watching is sports that I watch a little behind real time and I ride the transport buttons very hard to skip through commercials, half time, stoppages of play, etc.  So I want a remote with hard buttons that I don’t have to look at  
 

Here's a blog on someone that did something similar https://mutable-states.com/the-airplay-turntable-kit.html
But I would just get an amp and speakers for his room, unless he really wanted to stream to the rest of the house.  Just make sure that the amp has a phono input as turntables are a different level then regular analog and need to be pre-amplified.
But don't forget that you only get about 20 minutes on one side of an album until you have to flip it over.  I remember when Tom Petty made one of his first CDs - Full Moon Fever.  He put a pause and a special message for CD listeners.
 

How does moving from 200 up/down to 1Gig change your experience on an iPhone, other than looking better on a Speedtest?  Watching Netflix uses 15 Mbps for 4K video.  Maybe if you are downloading lots of songs onto your phone or downloading video from Netflix or other streaming services.  But most people just stream on demand these days and 200 is more than enough for that. 
Are you sure it is worth spending a few thousand to get faster Wifi that may not really improve your actual experience?

Chamberlain/Liftmaster continue to show a hostility towards their end consumer.  In the future when I need a garage door opener it is going to be ABC - Anyone But Chamberlain.

Yes, nothing is needed programming-wise.  If you had to repalce the HC-300 with a new unit then you would need to do some programming.
But you are living on borrowed time with an HC-300. It is the equivalent of using an iPhone 3 in 2022.

Here is a blog entry on how to replace the power supply:
http://www.5khz.com/2014/05/19/replacing-the-power-supply-in-the-control4-home-controller-hc-300/
Alternatively, you could run the 5V line from a PC power supply temporarily just to ensure that the issue is actually the power supply.

Search the threads here and you will see a part number.  However, it seems like the part may no longer be available from electronics suppliers.
If I were you I would buy a used HC300 on ebay, you should be able to get them for no more than $20.  Then it is very, very easy to replace the power supply.  Open the case.  The power supply is a small board that has two connectors that pull off.  Pull of those connectors, take out the screws and replace.

Here is a blog entry on how to replace the power supply:
http://www.5khz.com/2014/05/19/replacing-the-power-supply-in-the-control4-home-controller-hc-300/
Alternatively, you could run the 5V line from a PC power supply temporarily just to ensure that the issue is actually the power supply.

Agreed, and the same for pool equipment.  
FYI - There is also the OpenSprinkler project:  https://opensprinkler.com/

This is just one man's opinion, but I think coloured lights are a gimmick.  I have a bunch of Hue coloured bulbs and when I first got them I played around with the colours and some apps that do special effects like fireworks, holiday lighting, etc.
But after the first month they have been set on a shade of white and that is where they have stayed ever since.
I also have a few RGB LED strips in my house in various places.  They also stay set on white.

What do you use the C4 integration for?  I have thought about this in the past but I struggle to come up with a use case where I need it in C4.  I only actually use the irrigation app a handful of times per year and that is usually around opening and closing the system for the season.

What do you use the C4 integration for?  I have thought about this in the past but I struggle to come up with a use case where I need it in C4.  I only actually use the irrigation app a handful of times per year and that is usually around opening and closing the system for the season.

Add another vote for this functionality improvement

Over time there seems to be a big reduction in the number of relays and contacts - compare the HC-200 and HC-800 to the newer controllers.  What's the reason for this?  People not using them anymore?

Thanks Jonathan, I will speak to my dealer about upgrading.

It isn't nearly as cool as what you are suggesting, but you can buy motion activated sprinklers for less than $50. But using C4 to do this gives you major geek cred in my book!
Blue Iris allows you to trigger http events which you could receive in C4.  With a ring camera and the ring C4 driver you can program against motion.
 
 
By the way, this issue with Canada Goose poop being a problem is an episode of Letterkenny, the best show on TV. NSFW on the account of every other word staring with F. 
You got a problem with Canada Gooses, you got a problem with me.  And I suggest you let that one marinate!
 

It isn't nearly as cool as what you are suggesting, but you can buy motion activated sprinklers for less than $50. But using C4 to do this gives you major geek cred in my book!
Blue Iris allows you to trigger http events which you could receive in C4.  With a ring camera and the ring C4 driver you can program against motion.
 
 
By the way, this issue with Canada Goose poop being a problem is an episode of Letterkenny, the best show on TV. NSFW on the account of every other word staring with F. 
You got a problem with Canada Gooses, you got a problem with me.  And I suggest you let that one marinate!
 

It isn't nearly as cool as what you are suggesting, but you can buy motion activated sprinklers for less than $50. But using C4 to do this gives you major geek cred in my book!
Blue Iris allows you to trigger http events which you could receive in C4.  With a ring camera and the ring C4 driver you can program against motion.
 
 
By the way, this issue with Canada Goose poop being a problem is an episode of Letterkenny, the best show on TV. NSFW on the account of every other word staring with F. 
You got a problem with Canada Gooses, you got a problem with me.  And I suggest you let that one marinate!
 

There is no EA-2, but there are EA-3s and EA-5s.  The number represents the number of audio outputs but it includes HDMI so the EA-1 doesn't really have an audio output.  The EA-3 has two audio only outputs plus HDMI.  The EA-5 has four audio outputs plus HDMI.  Audio out is used for whole home audio - like Tidal, Amazon Music, Spotify Connect, Shairplay or your own MP3 (or whatever format) audio files.
The EA-3 and EA-5 have better CPUs as well so that they can handle large systems with more devices.  The EA-1 is only recommended for a single room system.  I have well over 120 devices such as C4 dimmers, keypads, plus about 10 TVs, cable boxes, Rokus, several audio matrix amps, blinds, fireplace, door locks, security system, SR260s, SR250s, etc.  For that many devices you will want an EA-3 and maybe multiple controllers to handle lots of Zigbee devices.
The controllers don't act as audio or video switches.  They use other devices, like your AVR, or TV and switch inputs.  They do this by sending IR commands or IP or serial if your TV and AVR has that.
What you suggest should work, but if you ever think you want more you might want to consider an EA-3.

one that was not mentioned. These are a zigbee device which is a mesh network. At some point you just have to many nodes and too many ways for the data to travel back to the hub. Having so many paths can cause the data to jump around and get lost or cause a lot of latency. Depending on how good the mesh is you can have larger sizes too. Control4 will recommend no more than 100 devices to a single mesh but you can do more if needed, but some may experience issues. It's also a good rule of thumb that if a room has a lot of devices in a small space you may want to segregate them to their own mesh for the same reasons as above.

I like toekick lights as well, but mine face straight down.  I have also used the aluminum channels with white covers and the covers diffuse the lights.

And just to explain this a bit more - there are a ton of "generic" light strips that you can buy on Amazon and other places - most of them are 12V.  These will need a power supply and a controller but they should work with pretty much any controller as the controller is just controlling voltage levels for the different colors.  You can get a very simple controller that will just be controlled via an IR remote control, or you can get a wifi controller.  You can get RGB or RGBW - the W standing for white.  When you get a controller make sure that it matches your strips for the RGB or RGBW.
Or you can buy a kit with the strips, controller and power supply such as the ones that you linked to.
Are the one on Amazon "cheap Chinese junk"?  Possibly, but it is possible that all of these light strips are made in the same couple of factories in Shenzhen so the "name" brands may not be any different than any other strips.
I have had a bunch of these cheaper strips for a decade, both inside and outside.  The inside ones have lasted pretty well, but the outside ones have not as they are not as waterproof as I had hoped.  And the silicone covering has turned yellow and bubbled.  You can get the strips uncoated, which are kind of a bare metal and are cheaper, and outdoor ones that are coated in silicone. You can normally cut them to size with scissors and you can get about every six inches.  You can get accessories to join strips together or to have L angles, or whatever.  But when you join strips together they start to fade at the end of the strips so you can generally do no more than two strips with one power supply, and even that may be pushing it.  There are also 24V strips that should suffer from fewer fading issues but they are harder to find.

When indenting code always use tabs, NOT spaces  😃

This is from Bell Canada in Toronto, but I believe that these speeds are also available in other major cities in Ontario and Quebec.
I actually have 500/20 service from Rogers Cable, but they have a gigabit option as well, but their upload speed is capped at around 30.