Jeff W

I wanted to follow up from our earlier post.  I've attached a couple of pictures of the way we do it.  We will always try to run the garage door opener wires back to the processor whenever possible.  If not, we locate the Z2io/secondary processor in a secure location.  The Lift master 893 Max does almost every garage door open lift master makes.  
We can then run a garage rail door sensor to either the main processor or the secondary processor to monitor if the door is open/close.  In the pictures below, we've tied the doors into the alarm system so we can monitor the doors through there.  
@RyanE I'd figured you'd appreciate the details.  

Control4 and Lutron don't recommend putting non dimming loads on a keypad dimmer (or any dimmers for that matter).  Even with zero ramp time, it still ramps up the load (albeit quickly) and over time this may cause damage to the non-dimmed load.
Depending on the location of the keypad/dimmer, switches.  You may be able to expand the work box an extra gang.  IE.  From a 2 gang to a 3 gang to fit another switch for the fan in.  If you're not comfortable doing it as a home owner, I recommend contacting an electrician.  
It may be more work doing it this way, but it's the right thing to do.  It's similar to what @RAV suggested but keeps the wiring close the original switch leg.  

I just checked the Control4 Switch specs for you.   Operating temperature is 32F - 104F.  If it gets hotter than that in your attic it will eventually fail.  

@Danimite as a long time user of C4 (not a dealer) I highly recommend you start by engaging one of the remote dealers on this forum to look at your system, ensure it is up to date, and to help you get setup and comfortable with the system. They will also be able to tell you what you have and equally important what you do not have. If your tv or AVR is integrated into C4, than you will need a dealer to configure this part of your system regardless. Having been a C4 user for almost 15 years now, a LOT has changed and improved. I promise it will be worth your time and money. 

I would recommend doing one of two things.
1) Add a generic relay you can toggle.
2) Install the "Relay Garage Door Controller (OS 2.9) driver (assuming you have 2.9 or higher).
Make the bindings (or have a dealer make them for you) and then test it out.
Garage door openers don't have a 'open' or 'close' setting.  When you manually press the door opener button and release it, you are making a momentary electrical connection.  The open relay and close relay don't duplicate that action.  The toggle action does.
I would look at that first.  

Coffee House, Symphony Hall, Lithium and BPM aren't working for me either.  Looks like a bigger issue than just the two stations at first glance.  

@Jonathan, C4 Engineer
 
Interface: iOS iPhone Pro 11 (15.5)
Interface: iOS iPad Air (5th Gen)
Interface: T4s (All T4's in the project)
 
Director: 3.3.0.628678
Mobile App Version: 322.23.0.1601
 
Reproducible on all interfaces, can provide debug if you need it.
Symphony Hall, Coffee House, BPM, Lithium won't play.
 
Putting the URL from the debug on stations that don't work come up with a 404 error in a browser.
Putting the URL from the debug on stations that do work lets me save the stream in a browser.

I would have your dealer log into the project and check to see if the lock has a high number of inbound or outbound failures in the zigbee network.
I would check the RSSI of the lock in the zigbee network.
I would remove it from the mesh network first (both from the device and Composer) and then re-add before deleting the driver and re-doing all of the custom programming.
I recommend not using rechargeable batteries.  I recommend using alkaline batteries.  
 

@Neo1738  Glad to hear you got it working again!

@pkkaiser  I believe what you have to do is use the new "DMX Universal Dimmer" driver.  Configure it for RGB or RGBW. 
In the Red DMX channels enter it as follows [1,4,7]
In the Green DMX enter it as [2,5,8]
In the blue DMX channels enter it as [3,6,9]
 
You'll have to calculate your Red, Green and Blue channels accordingly.  But if you do that, you can then use the color wheel to control everything with one control.  I believe this is what you're after.  I have 7 DMX separate zones using RGBW and a total of 35 channels and this worked for me. I hope this helps.  
 

@pkkaiser  I believe what you have to do is use the new "DMX Universal Dimmer" driver.  Configure it for RGB or RGBW. 
In the Red DMX channels enter it as follows [1,4,7]
In the Green DMX enter it as [2,5,8]
In the blue DMX channels enter it as [3,6,9]
 
You'll have to calculate your Red, Green and Blue channels accordingly.  But if you do that, you can then use the color wheel to control everything with one control.  I believe this is what you're after.  I have 7 DMX separate zones using RGBW and a total of 35 channels and this worked for me. I hope this helps.  
 

When you favorite a RGBW or tunable white fixture to the room.  The system can tell if the fixture is doing RGBW or tunable white coloring and it can adjust your favorite room icon between a fixture with RGBW bulb or a tunable white bulb.  Pretty cool detail!
The bulb is also different from the standard lighting icon, it looks like a LED bulb.  More cool details.  

When you favorite a RGBW or tunable white fixture to the room.  The system can tell if the fixture is doing RGBW or tunable white coloring and it can adjust your favorite room icon between a fixture with RGBW bulb or a tunable white bulb.  Pretty cool detail!
The bulb is also different from the standard lighting icon, it looks like a LED bulb.  More cool details.  

We have another vendor that sells a similar OEM model, it works very well!  I have 7 of these at one install and they work flawlessly.  Highly recommend them!

We've been hardwiring door openers to either a Z2io or directly to the processor (preferred) for years and never had a problem.  We have tons of sites out there with a very clean solution.  I will try to visit some of these sites next week and show you some very good options.  
 
 

Interesting, didn't know they did that!  Thanks for the information!  

One thing I like about C4 switches is ability to program LED colors on different things like music station, garage door open or closed, etc.

Short answer is yes.  Long answer it depends how you set it up.  
To my knowledge the "Chime Video Doorbell" doesn't have relays on it.  But you could install relays in the mechanical room or elsewhere and wire it to the door strike and to an applicable Control4 processor.  Then setup custom buttons either in the GUI. or use "Custom Button 1" or "Custom Button 2" on the chime.  When these custom buttons are pressed, the system triggers the relays and opens the electric strike.  This is dependent if you have the wiring etc etc etc.
The DS2 has two relays built into the unit itself.  You can control electric strikes through the DS2 but it does require some programming.  
 

I know this response is late, but wanted to share my experience/feedback.
My opinion, if it's a small network, no automation, no AV rack.  The client just wants a professional network installation there is two options.
Install the switch into a wall mounted shelving system. Wiring everything directly into the switch with a service loop bundled behind the equipment.  We're talking approx 10-12 outlets, maybe some POE for access points is ok. Ideal for rear facing network equipment. Or if you have front facing network equipment, you can install a patch panel.  I prefer non punch down panels and individual jacks because it's easier to troubleshoot.  it's troublesome to re-configure wire in large bundles on punch down panels.  You don't want to pop 1 conductor of a random wire on a punch down panel. However, if you're doing a small - large home automation system, have an AV rack, and plan on using automation long term, I HIGHLY recommend going with a patch panel. 
During the course of time (18 years for my personal home) equipment changes.  If you installed something at the bottom of the rack, re-wire and install a replacement item at the top of the rack you're now creating additional work and more places where things go wrong. It sucks to have to make jumpers or extend wires inside the AV rack.  After a while it just gets messy.  After time, it's hard to keep track of what's what. I had to change my system out numerous times.  Prior to going with a patch panel it always sucked changing stuff out and I dreaded having to make large changes.  Now, it's much, much easier. We wire from the patch panels into the AV racks for a super clean look.  Changing out or adding wires is much easier this way.
A large part of our business is doing what we call 'take over jobs' in our industry.  I present exhibit A, B, C and D.

A= A small wall mounted shelf with rear facing network equipment. @RyanE will probably approve of the network switches.

B = Our standard Patch panels for our clients.  We make every connection live for customer ease.

C = Take over job and completed patch panel.

D = Not our work, this is what can happen when things get out of control. PS.  I hope it uploads in the correct order heh.  I'm not taking credit for the messy work.
EDIT:  First time uploading to these forums... I was hoping it would upload thumbnails, but nope.  Super big pictures.. sorry everyone 🙈

That's ok Zaphod, we won't hold that against you .  Our patch panels and AV racks are the accumulation of 13+ years in the industry.  We are continuously trying to improve each one we do.  We even custom make panels and equipment to achieve our vision.  If you'd like to check out more of our work, I welcome you to check out our Instagram page.
EVS Instagram Page
Account = EVScalgary

We get a fair number as well - just wish everyone was willing to pay for getting it done as nicely as the one's your showing there 😄
All to often the  line is something like: "can't you just plan a guy for a day to clean this up for me, using what I have" 🙄

We sell Sony. Here’s why
- Android based
- comes with every media service you can think of
- Supports wireless and hardwired ip control
- free certified driver 
- mini drivers supported  
- fast (faster than Samsung for sure)
- native airplay and chromecast support
 

This. Did it with my brand-new MyQ units since Chamberlain decided they didn't want to integrate. It's bulletproof and futureproof...

This is our preferred method.  But you can also use something like GRI 2600 (either 2 wire or 4 wire conductor) if you have an open Contact/power on your processor.  You will need a dealer to add/bind.
Regardless of what option you choose, I also highly recommend @Cinegration Water Agent, click here for driver details! 
 

This may not be exactly what you were looking for, but it might give you some ideas.  We actually cut out the rock to make room for a one of a kind custom made copper back plate to match the rest of the front exterior.   The copper back plate is wrapped around a base we supplied the metalsmith.  The edges are copper welded and polished, you can't see any edges.  The fit and finish on the copper plate is amazing.  
We then installed a flush mounted DS2 onto the back plate.  I think it worked out awesome, but I am a little biased 🙈