zaphod

Global Cache products like the GC-100 are good for this but generally aren't cheaper than what you quoted, unless you buy used off of ebay.

I didn't see a weight on the spec sheet, but I have the old C4 Speaker Point and it is pretty heavy.

or have to charge it every night… 
I need to do a race with a new out of the box Neeo versus a new Savant X2 because well…both batteries suck. 
 

NowTHAT is one small AVR.

When I saw the thread title I was thinking that this was going to be for a device that would let you know if someone wet the bed.

@South Africa C4 user @zaphod red theme is now live!

Nice new colour!

based on the SaaS architecture that is not likely here.

Chamberlain/Liftmaster are wankers and should be avoided at all costs.  They changed their API, want to collect a subscription fee and changed their openers so you can't even use a simple relay.  Encourage everyone to buy Genie openers instead.
If that isn't an option check out the Garadget thread.  Garadget sells modified Chamberlain openers that you can connect into C4 via relays.  Or you could use the entire Garadget system to also sense a door opening.

Agree for the most part with what you say, but this isn't really v1 as there was a Watch app under OS2 but it was buggy and it wasn't supported under OS3. So this is like a reboot of a C4 Watch app.

C4 seems to be doing more pro-active marketing to end users - two days in a row I have received emails from them - I don't know that they have done this very often in the past. 
The info on the Watch app was good and these videos seem useful. But I think this woman is going to still have problems as she holding her phone upside down. Or someone stole the camera lens and flash.

Ok, this is starting to get NSFW!  When you pull your wire, make sure you use lots of lube! 😀
 
Here's a video showing how much wire lube helps: 
 

Ok, this is starting to get NSFW!  When you pull your wire, make sure you use lots of lube! 😀
 
Here's a video showing how much wire lube helps: 
 

An article in the Verge today:
https://www.theverge.com/22787729/matter-smart-home-standard-apple-amazon-google

The way that the controllers are named is that for an EA-X controller you have X audio connections.  Actually X-1 if you don't count HDMI and it isn't recommended to use HDMI for audio (for sync reasons) when you have multi-zone audio.  That's why I often mark a smartass comment that the correct name for the EA-1 controller should be an EA-0.

WTF happened with these Shield update as they seemed to break pretty much every app out there?

Anyone else notice that the default button icon looks like a Unifi Access Point?

I've forked a branch of the python code here:

https://github.com/EnsignRutherford/C4driverbuilder

This version has added error handling, proper character conversion, and saves the final driver as "uibutton_<image name>.c4z", e.g. uibutton_christmas.c4z. 

I also added a Windows batch file to call, 'build.bat.'

Still doing some tweaking, like the batch file can process all images in a folder and create drivers for all of them.  I have some free time. 

IMO the best solution in an iOS plus C4 household is Spotify.  It isn't native within the C4 UI but I prefer the Spotify phone/iPad UI for finding and starting music and then you just play to a Spotify device.  This is better than Shairplay as once the Spotify connect stream is consummated your phone is removed from the equation.
I have tried Tidal and Amazon Music and they each have drawbacks, especially if you want to stick to one service for C4 plus other uses like phone, car, etc.

The docs explain it all:  https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5305718de4b0e8a52d75a8cc/t/5f1516a006a2aa412302d8b8/1595217652709/Chowmain+-+Generic+TCP+Command+Driver+Installation+Guide.pdf

But for those of us on Unifi there is a vulnerability in the Unifi Controller software.  You need to upgrade to the latest release or manually upgrade the log4j jar files.

An article in the Verge today:
https://www.theverge.com/22787729/matter-smart-home-standard-apple-amazon-google

With an EA3 you have three audio outputs, hence the 3 in the name, but one is HDMI. so you can get two “pure” audio streams.  The amp, assuming that it is a C4-16AMP3-B, is a matrix switch as well as an amp.  So you can put the two audio outputs from the EA3 into the amp. The one complication is that I believe one of the outputs of the EA3 is digital, and the amp only takes analog inputs, so you need a digital to analog converter, but those are cheap. 
 
if you need more streams then you will need to split the audio out of the HDMI, which is not always a good idea, or get an EA5 or get another EA3. 

Thanks Mitch and Ryan!

I was using the third party HTI one - I didn't know that there was a Control4 Roku TV driver.  Is this new?
The appears to work - at least to power on and off.    I was having problems with the 3rd party driver.
Thanks!