OceanDad

What dad said. 

You did Tacos. Then you posted our quote online and the same questions you asked us. If you don't trust us then by all means, there are lots of remote dealers here and I can  suggest a few for you. If you need references, we can send you hundreds and I am positive you wont find even one unhappy customer.

I thought long and hard before commenting on this as I know some won’t appreciate what I have to say.  Honestly, I love C4 and honestly, this sort of comment from a C4 employee makes me cringe.  I have no idea what customer service is like in the states, but if one of my employees made a comment like this on a public forum, I would de-authorise him from making any public comments with regard to my brand.  In fact, a comment like this would be a dismissible offence at our company as it would be in breach of our social media policy.
Please don’t get me wrong.  That does not mean that I would never cancel someones contract… I would (and have) under certain circumstances.  However, I would not go around making public threats about doing it, I would simply do it IF the circumstances warranted it.

Triad matrix needs to be programmed to be the video audio endpoint and volume control for the room.

Anyone making an obsolescence argument against Control4 in favor of Home Assistant or open source platforms in general sounds like a cult member. It's a perfectly viable hobby, but I don't come from my woodcarving retreat and ponder aloud, "what are furniture stores going to do when this catches on!?"
Get a hold of yourselves.

We have a pyjama drawer.  It's self contained, rather than open plan, but it is immediately adjacent to the underwear drawer.

We have a pyjama drawer.  It's self contained, rather than open plan, but it is immediately adjacent to the underwear drawer.

I never said update it to the full OS3 version. Make it into a smaller IO extender. The IO extender is not on OS3 and probably had those same issues you put above. Disable audio/video/zigbee.
It was just wasteful to EOL a device that wasnt that old and could have been repurposed to fit needs that a lot of people had (IR/Serial/Contact/relay). No one would have really cared if the audio and video were disabled. It would have been nice if could have kept Zigbee but if that would have been too difficult it would have been understandable.
Like I said, I think Control4 does a pretty good job of allowing stuff to be upgraded. This was a glaring exception.

There are more cures for this than having the hiccups.
Reserve the IP
Static the IP
Turn off IP6
Turn on Simple in the TV, Web in Composer
ID by SDDP
ID by SDDP, then change to the reserve/static IP
Turn off auto date and time
Change the TV name to something simple with all lowercase no special characters
Use WiFi

Anybody know what incense to burn?
How far Sony fell, IP was perfect for years. Well, there's always next model year.
 

Maybe someone could start a service to check the credentials of the checker.  Say, $300.
🤣
 

because you can use your phone that also fits into your hand, has the C4 app, has the ability to run other apps, etc?
Also C4 has the built in mark up because it is going from manufacturer to dealer to end user - though maybe this is being sold through the same dealer only channels so that would describe some of the mark up
I mean its 90% the same logic why I didn't buy a NEEO and even that is like half the price
I am not knocking the design (though its not for me without buttons), or the idea that you can run other Apps on it, just $1200 for a universal remote seems expensive for an "ecosystem" of a remote + 2.1 sound system (plus the Android market).

Not exactly what you asked for, but I used this small acrylic shelf recently to mount to the wall behind a TV.  Fits the Triad One exactly, used a bit of strong velcro on the bottom for extra security.  2 pack for less than $10.  
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GLXDQ2N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

No - but funnily enough, I think the 6 year old will figure it out sooner than the 12 year old.  She's just much more curious and resourceful.  I did my best to hide the outlet in amongst all the other stuff that is attached behind the TV.
Always interested to hear ideas for making everything a little more child-safe/child-proof etc.
 

1.  If you have a spare CAT6 going from your BDI unit location back to your AV rack, then you can use that with a Tx/Rx balun at either end to convert to HDMI.  That can carry your DVR output to your AVR.
2. If you haven't yet chosen your DVR, I would go with the Hik 7616-NI.  Then use the Chowmain driver and firmware to give you maximum control via C4 remotes. (http://www.chowmainsoft.com/hikvision-control4)
3. You simply need a short HDMI cable from the EA-1 into the TV to be able to use the C4 onscreen navigator and you could view cameras from there.   That's the only 'hardwiring' required.  The rest is done in software configuration by your C4 dealer.  It would really help if he knows Hikvision well.  You will be able to view all cameras from both TV's assuming that they both have an EA-1 attached.
4. But if it were my project... I'd be doing my best to get a direct feed from the Hik DVR to the AVR or TV.  The 7616 only has 1 HDMI out, but you could get a cheap HDMI splitter to give you two or more feeds out.  Then take those via CAT6 to your TV's.  Much better viewing.  Then get your C4 guy to program some stuff like ' when line detection is crossed in front yard, switch to HDMI2 on Living Room TV'.  Then you can get automatic full screen viewing of the pizza delivery guy or whatever floats your boat.

Another option, although pricier, but very stable, is to use Global Cache Flex units, which make IR, Serial, and contact/relay controls all IP-controllable and is compatible with C4 with a free drive. I've used them all over my house and they can be PoE-powered. Best bet for cleanest run is to just take the Ethernet cable, plug it into the GC unit, and then get their serial cable to plug into the Sony. This is what I do with my LG TVs since the IP control lags FAAAR too much. 

Also, if you are just connecting the 3.5mm serial on the TV to an EA-1 local to the TV, just use a regular stereo 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable.

Ive also used a DB9 to RJ45 connector's like this https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=1151&gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KGH3YyWiz7alJboCWaC2s5Db3q-HN33paWnzTLmuJncKZm8jjRo8tUaAr9yEALw_wcB and then use a DB9 female to 3.5mm cable to the TV like this https://www.sfcable.com/6ft-db9-female-to-3-5mm-serial-cable.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KEL1ZOZuA9eg78yWXPZ_L4VRiQUTz8ZyHa8Au1zR_BMzmnDBjRLFHQaAo4YEALw_wcB

Quick and dirty get a stereo and serial cable cut the ends off and dolphin clip them to the Cat6. Use a volt meter to check continuity to make sure your getting the correct 3.5mm rings connected to the RS232 pins.
Better looking same method but with solder on ends and some heat shrink.
I have done both, but I prefer the cleaner look. When I can I will push it through the HDBaseT if the option is there.

A pair of Wago or butt connectors is what I have used.  It's ugly, but it's all I had in a pinch.  

Roon will only let you group Sonos zones with other Sonos zones.  Roon will recognize and play to different types of zones in the same system, but Roon will only let you group "like with like" for synchronized playback.  
I don't have personal experience with C4 audio matrices and Roon, since we are an all-Sonos house.  However, there are people over on the Roon forums that appear to use this setup.  The folks over there that I am familiar with connect their Roon Nucleus to an external DAC via USB, and then connect the DAC to the C4 matrix. In this case, C4 would view Roon as a single source, and you'd have to handle grouping via C4 only.  (In principle, you could get two Roon sources out of a single Nucleus, because the Nuc has both a USB and an HDMI output, and the Roon driver allows you to bind the Nucleus HDMI output to anything you like.) I am not sure if there is an alternative strategy that causes each matrixed audio zone to appear as a Roon zone.  

The “hot wire” way has been the official way to do it for a very long time and is as clean as any thing else. This is standard across multiple platforms. Dealers relying on Cloud or plug and play access have been doing it wrong. 

The only thing it does not do (nudge nudge - @Shivam Paw) is allow one to add a blank space of x seconds in a message…

C4 seems to be doing more pro-active marketing to end users - two days in a row I have received emails from them - I don't know that they have done this very often in the past. 
The info on the Watch app was good and these videos seem useful. But I think this woman is going to still have problems as she holding her phone upside down. Or someone stole the camera lens and flash.

Use a long reel of strong cord/fishing line with a plastic bag tied on the end to act like a piston.  Then use a shop vac at the other end of the tube to suck the line through.  Works long distances, round bends, whatever.  Then use that cord to pull your cable (and a new string).

Rolled the dice and rebooted via sysman.  Controller came back online still showing the older version.  Went to update for a second time and got a message saying that an update was already in progress.  Cleared that and everything updated normally.  All good now 😰